the big trip

Faro through the Lens

2008-11-26T21:29:00.012Z

Vilamoura - Portugal again!

2008-11-25T21:49:00.010Z

Vilamoura from "Sundancer"

Our arrival at our allocated berth was delayed slightly by finding a tender moored there but it's owner had seen our approach and eventually removed it. We had forgotten that the pontoon fingers were probably the worse we had ever experienced - surprising in such a well managed marina. The fingers are rather short and severely tapered, very narrow at their outer end ,but, even worse, the single cleats at their outer end are shared by boats to each side and are very short with a single puny crossbar. Each one needs to take 2 sets of stern lines and 2 springs and when we entered our berth there was not enough space left to take our warps - nor are there any centre cleat. Pathetic! Our new neighbour with the tender had hidden below decks - on one of the few occasions when we might have appreciated a helping hand. Well, that's got that off my chest!!!

Other than that, we were soon settled and wandered ashore to test a local bar - stress works wonders on a thirst!

We had found the charges quite reasonable and we were thinking of changing our plans, especially as we had been offered a winter berth at less cost than Lagos. And it was handy for the airport at Faro - and we could fly in to Exeter, a real bonus as we normally have to fly to Luton or Stanstead.

We didn't need to make a decision yet so we got our bikes out -the first time since Torredembarra at the start of the season - and enjoyed a carefree few days exploring the area. We also took a bus trip to Faro, amazed to see several storks roosting in their colossal nests on top of the tallest buildings and chimneys and even on a lamp-post. We wandered round the old town and by the waters edge along the beautiful lagoon. We decided on the spot that it had been a mistake to sail past Faro and vowed to make a visit a must next Spring- another reason to make Vilamoura our winter berth.

And so it was, we spent the rest of the month playing tourists, visiting local markets and a bus trip to Albufeira.

We winterised the boat, took mainsail and genoa to the local sailmaker for a winter's TLC and valet and flew home on the 9th November.

Isla de Canela (Isle of Cinnamon)

2008-11-25T20:09:00.014Z

A quick look round Isla de Canela

We were not unhappy to leave Mazagon behind us, especially as we had a good reaching wind with us, and once again our hardest working crewmate - the Raytheon Autopilot - was briefed on his day's mission; he seldom let us down and, even more important, NEVER answered back.

Our landfall, Isla de Canela (Cinnamon Island), 32 miles or so away, was a pleasant day sail away and if we couldn't atually smell the Cinnamon we might get a whiff of Portugal as it was a nudge away from the border.

Early afternoon and we could see the entrance to the River and we soon negotiating the bar at the entrance, the depth around the starboard mark much better than the 2 metres or so suggested by the chart at that state of tide, although we were amazed by the speed of the flood. We turned to port, passing through the narrow entrance to the marina, leaving the three large fishing boats which had entered the river with us, to travel further upriver to the fishing harbour.

The efficient staff in the rather grand office allocated us a berth quickly and we were comfortably settled by 15.00hrs. After a quick tootle round the town we spoilt ourselves with a super dinner at Bella Italia.

Our sleep was rudely interupted at 4.00am by departing fishing boats from the berths immediately outside the marina. We spent a couple of days enjoying the town, it is a fairly recent marina village type development but quite nicely done and a half hour walk round the head of the bay brings one to the old town which is rather more characterful.

The 3rd September, the new month a timely reminder that we needed to get a move on and 8.30 saw us dropping lines and leaving on the start of the ebb, our Portugese Courtesy Flag ready for the hoist!

18.00hrs saw us sailing past the fishing port, the Puero Deportiva a mile or so ahead, in company with a Spanish sailing school vessel. The school boat had a crew of about 8 and we wanted to be in before them, they would take a long time to clear Portugese systems but they looked as they would overhaul us - the skipper anxious to keep his crew on the boil. When they rounded up to drop sail outside the entrance we decided to go for it and sailed into the outer harbour where the calmer conditions allowed us to do a very quick sail drop. We reached the visitors pontoon about 3 boat lengths ahead and enjoyed our victory no end. Small things, as my mother used to say!

Rota Church Photos

2008-11-24T21:05:00.027Z

Just a taste of the grandeur of Rota Church

Rota thro' Mazagon

2008-11-23T21:30:00.016Z

Just a few of the many charms of Rota (see photos of the Church on the next post)

From Barbate to Rota was a long day's motorsail with little wind and a very hot sun. We had Cadiz and its tall buildings and enormous dockyard cranes visible for a long time, reminding of our previous visit to the bay when we had motored in with a broken forestay and rigging trailing in the water. Today's trip was a lot happier, and we crossed the bay against the flow of yachts returning to Cadiz and its neighbouring marinas from their day's sailing.

Rota has a large modern marina with a big Navy Base close by and we approached the narrow dogleg entrance at 19.00hrs, quickly overtaken by a fast ferry from Puerto Sherry, and we tied up near the ferry as it disgorged its many passengers. The very helpful officials soon had us sorted with a berth, 23 Euros a night. It all had a good feel - we liked it already.

A walk in to town and we found a busy, thriving place with a lot of charm. Also good shopping and a good Carrefour where we found lots of goodies and restocked our empty lockers. We found a staggeringly beautiful church but could not help be horrified at how much must have been spent on its interior at a time in history when we suspected the local population were poor. Back on board we found a local American radio station which appeared to be aimed at USA forces in the area but was very entertaining and update us on world affairs. Out after dinner we found the town very busy - even the beaches where locals had card schools grouped around on beach chairs - and we sat at a pavement cafe gorging ourselves on huge ice creams (piccies of the feast have been censored by the mate and are not available!)

The following morning Godfrey and Christine from"Gemini Dreamer" popped round and invited us for drinkies - always a popular move (they had arrived the previous evening but we had not realised it) We had a lovely swim in the afternoon and after dinner visited Gemini Dreamer where we had a very pleasant evening. A very good day but we were planning to move on tomorrow.

The day dawned but the skipper didn't. I felt very iffy (nothing to do with the previous evening) and spent most of the day asleep. The following day had strong winds and we stayed - not hard to do in Rota.

The 29th August, forecast OK but winds better for Mazagon than Vilamoura. Left at 10.45 and enjoyed a superb sail, strong, consistent wind from SW and 7+ kts on the log. A long approach to Mazagon, sharing the channel with tankers making for the refinery upriver from Puerto Deportiva, before a hairpin turn to starboard to enter the marina. The waiting quay was very busy but a German boat very generously hailed us to berth alongside - a kindness he might have regretted because it took an hour or so before we cleared the formalities and were able to make for our berth - during which time he was pinned inside us.

The marina was big but a bit souless and we found the town much the same the following day, well, the souless bit anyway. The loud music playing all night convinced us to move on tout de suite and we were away by 09.00 on the second morning, enjoying a strong ebb and departing at a satisfyingly quick rate, leaving to starboard by far the biggest breakwater we had ever seen

Barbate

2008-11-23T17:21:00.010Z

Left; Barbate, the local restaurant, cause of much late night noise. Right; Hazel with Barbate offices and "Sundancer" behind

On our first night in Barbate we sat in the cockpit till late enjoying a beautiful warm evening and a leisurely dinner. The following day started as the previous day finished but in the early afternoon the wind freshened considerably blowing hard across the berth. Just after lunch a rather smart Dehler 41DS appeared alongside but the cross wind proved a bit difficult as they attempted to berth alongside the open pontoon. We took their lines on the second approach and "Gemini Dreamer" was soon tucked up.

Later we had a book swop with them - our bookshelf refreshed again for a while.

Another pleasant evening, spoilt a little by a very noisy night - a nearby nightclub not closing till dawn! We left at 11.30, Rota, on the far side of Cadiz Bay, and about 45 miles away, our next port.

The Great Siege Tunnels

2008-11-23T14:28:00.021Z

Below; view across to La Linea from a gun port.

Right; "powder monkey" on watch. Centre; Scale display of digging in blind end of tunnel.

Bottom; Gun embrasure

The tunnels were mainly built between 1779 and 1783 to defend the Rock from a joint attack by the Spanish and French Armies. By the time the seige had been successfully overcome in 1783 the tunnels were over 370ft. long - totally cut out by hand using pick axe and spade with judicious use of dynamite where possible.

It was originally intended to provide access to a higher plateau where guns were to be placed but when a ventilation point was cut through the face it was realised that they offered tremendous sites for cannon and other embrasures were ordered to be cut out. It was not until the end of the siege that the tunnel was eventually completed, driven downwards when it was realised what advantage was offered by the site, terminating in a large chamber called St George's Hall where a battery of 7 guns was installed. After the siege the Commander of the French and Spanish forces, The Duc de Crillon, was invited to look at the tunnels and observed "These works are worthy of the Romans"

In the 2nd. World War the tunnels were extended by 30 miles by British and Canadian engineers.

More Gibraltan Piccys

2008-11-18T13:08:00.016Z

Below; no Spanish Cala here, the busy Marina Bay.

Center; the old Siege Tunnels and right Barbary Ape on watch

Sunset over Spain - from our berth in Gibraltar

Dolphins and Apes. Must be Gibraltar then!

2008-11-18T12:31:00.020Z

Left: Sharing our approach with B.A and Right our previous boat "Brighteyes"

We left Benalmadena at 09.00, reaching across the bay and parallel to the beach, many local boats already anchored close in, the waters shallow and the depthmeter getting our constant attention. Gibraltar was about 50 miles away and with 6kts on the log fairly often we were looking forward to a good day. We were hoping to see dolphins and were not disappointed - we saw dozens of them. As we approached Gibraltar the seas got busier and busier and we kept well inshore as there was a continuous stream of ships - the Straits of Gibraltar is (are?) extremely narrow and certainly gets congested.

We entered Marina Bay at 19.30, just as a jet landed on the runway immediately alongside the marina, amused at the sign telling us that boat movements were not allowed when planes were landing or taking off - what were we supposed to do?

We were even more surprised to find ourselves berthed alongside our previous boat "Brighteyes" which we had sold in Poole, Dorset a couple of years previously - the new owners were not onboard so we were not able to check on the old girl.

We were of course in a sterling area and the berthing fees of a very modest £14 were the same as our previous visit - another surprise when we found it was exactly one year since we had left!

The next day saw us shopping at Morrison's Supermarket, a real bit of England, and it was nice to get some of our old favourites such as English Granary Breads and Stilton Cheese and Ty phoo tea and .... well we had to get a taxi back to the boat and we managed to squeeze in as well. The taxi driver, who - like lots of the local workers -was Spanish complained about the heat; his car's gauge showed 33degrees.

We had not seen The Great Siege Tunnels on our previous visit and Tuesday, 12th August saw us trudging up a very steep (and long) hill towards the top of the Rock to put this right. We chose a very hot day and looked on enviously at all the tour buses speeeding to the same destination filled with cool, air conditioned holidaymakers (wimps). But it was all worth it in the end. See separate post "Siege Tunnels". We then trudged downhill, enjoyed a quick lunch and cool beer in town and later, in the evening, went back in to town for a freeby concert in The Casements Square.

Wednesday and what a change. Cool and damp and a day for mooching and not much else. Thursday, much the same except fog later and reports of a ship aground in the entrance - refloated later.

Thursday, foggy and generally rubbish forecast so maintenance day. Very noisy night as Spanish festival and celebrations from nearby La Linea went on till 06.30am Friday!

Friday and fuelled and then left at 12.30 after fog had cleared. Had incorrectly copied down tide times from Easytides on internet and after rounding point at Tarifa realised mistake after encountering 6kts currrent in wrong direction so scuttled back to Tarifa and anchored in shelter of bay (skipper feeling very - well, a bit anyway - humble). A very quick reminder about tides after life in the Med and virtually tideless.

Spent a fairly disturbed night at anchor with frequent movements by Tarifa - Tangier ferries. Noticed stern gland leaking sea water quite badly and not cured by tightening and no new packing on board so decided to return to Gib to fix.

So, back again, trip to Sheppards for new packing. Fitted new packing also modified gearbox rear seal as repair at start of season had not totally stopped oil leak. Fine except weather wasn't so sat and moaned about fog for next 3 days - you can only go to Morrisons so many times!

22nd August and we left at 10.30 with promise that fog would soon lift. Visibility did improve quickly and by the time we cleared the bay was OKish. Enjoyed currents this time and 8kts+ as we past Tarifa was much better, thank you.

We entered Barbate at 17.30, an absolutely glorious evening.

Torre del Mar, dolphins on the starboard bow and Benalmadena.

2008-11-17T16:40:00.011Z

Motrel had come complete with a rock and rolly night and although we slept well we were happy to weigh anchor and be away by 09.30 the following morning. We motorsailed the first couple of hours but by midday we were romping along hard on the wind under full sail. And then, to cap it all, there was a shout of "Dolphins on the starboard bow!"

16.00 hrs saw us dropping sail in the entrance to Torre del Mar - surrounded by local fishing boats returning from a day that had no doubt been a lot harder than ours. We saw a red ensigned yacht "Storm Dragon" tied up alongside a quay to port and they shouted across that they had been instructed to wait for a berth. They warped themselves forward to make space and we were soon alongside.

Radioing the port office we were soon directed to a berth and, together with Storm Dragon we motored into the inner harbour and were soon supping our ceremonial cup of tea.

The following day dawned with our Navtex forecasting big seas and strong winds although Storm Dragon was seen to sail - they were headed in the opposite direction to us but we did wonder if we had wimped out a little. When they returned to their berth within a couple of hours, reporting a big swell and lots of discomfort, we tried not to feel too smug.

As it was we spent the day on chores - not too many, of course, because it was extremely hot.

8th August and the forecast was still a bit iffy - we particularly didn't like the expected big seas - but we went anyway. Unfortunately. The day gave us winds on the nose, lots of pitching and rolling and a distinct lack of appetite at lunchtime.

Puerto Benalmadena was a welcome sight and once inside the very well sheltered port we wondered what had been wrong with the day. It was 19.00hrs, the sun was still hot and the water inside the harbour was like the proverbial millpond. We berthed stern to next to a Brit couple who keep their boat in Benalmadena, flying out 4 or 5 times a year - they obviously liked the place!

And so did we - and all for only 23 Euros and complete with free Wi Fi.

The following morning was hot, very hot, and we stepped ashore - only a 2 minute walk from the town. We found the town geared for the holiday market with wall to wall bars and extremely busy but very pleasant anyway. A good many of the visitors were obviously Brits - maybe because Malaga Airport is only 25km or so away.

We Skyped everybody at home in the evening - a very good connection and it was lovely to speak to the family, some even viewed by cam camera, and all for absolutely zilch cost. The internet is a wonderful thing when cruising and if there is a good wireless signal.

We also did our usual chartwork for our next leg - Gibraltar was to be our next landfall and we would soon be out of the Med. and having to think about tides again.

More photos - Almermar & Aguadulce

2008-11-16T17:24:00.015Z

Above; Control office at Almerimar, left empty apartments at Almerimar and (bottom), more land being developed at Aguadulce

Aguadulce, Almerimar and onwards

2008-11-11T14:15:00.017Z

Below: Reception quay at Aguadulce and, right, pray for a good forecast on the fuel berth at Almerimar!

August 1st - the days certainly fly when you've nothing to do! We left our berth at 09.00hrs with very light winds on the nose. It proved a long day with sails up and down and engine on and off as the wind played games with us. We eventually motored into Aguadulce (translated "sweet water") at 21.00hrs, tying up alongside the waiting pontoon until we were allocated a berth. It was a bit of a shock to be told that we needed to part with 49 Euros, we had come to realise that the fees often bore little relationship to the facilities offered - the marina was OK but we had enjoyed better for less!

We spent a couple of days at Aguadulce, mooching about and mainly waiting for a decent forecast -it was not a favourite stopover and whilst we anxious to move on the weather plotted against it.

On the third day our Navtex wouldn't pick up a signal so we motored over to the waiting quay to check in the office for the forecast. It seemed we could look forward to strong winds later in the day but the winds would be up our skirt and we should make Almerimar in the available window.

So, off we went, motorsailing initially but we were soon enjoying a stiff breeze and storming along under full sail. The wind soon started veering and eventually we were hard on the wind until we turned the corner and headed for Almerimar, again enjoying a broad reach and 6kts+ on the log.

We slipped into the narrow entrance together with a couple of other yachts who had kept us company for the previous couple of hours and tied up ouside the rather grand port office at 14.15. The overnight charge was a more modest 18 Euros - the reason soon apparent as there was lots of empty berths, for some reason the marina did not seem terribly popular although we found it a very pleasant spot.

The marina had been developed as a "village", the berths set amid large apartment blocks and associated shops and restaurants. The two blocks next to our berth appeared to be totally empty, indeed had never been occupied, and even the sales office was empty and a touch neglected. Some developer appeared to have been disappointed!

Nonetheless, we enjoyed our stay, had a big shop at the nearby Mercadona and used the trolley to trundle our goodies back to the boat. We also enjoyed a drink or two in the local bars in rather attractive nearby Plazas. There were areas where the development worked quite well and the local squares were lively in the evenings.

We also found a nearby internet cafe and caught up with family and news from home.

We topped up water on the 5th August and were away by 10.00. We had planned to anchor at Cala Honda but after motorsailing all the way found the bay was filled with buoys and local boats and no space left - not what our pilot book had lead us to believe!

We motorsailed on to Motrel where we were able to find a pleasant spot to anchor and were soon able to escape the extreme heat by leaping into the crystal clear waters.

Sun, Sail and more sun.

2008-11-11T13:47:00.004Z

If we had been worried at the start of the year's sailing by the weather it was proving much more reliable than the previous year and it was beautiful to leave Cartagena if only to feel a cooling (relatively) breeze through the boat and we left with all hatches and windows open. It was windless for the first hour but the breeze then filled our sails and we had a gentle day, destination Cala Bardino - about 40 miles -where we anchored at 18.00 hours.

It was probably 18.05 before we were both swimming - cool for the first time that day. We always sail with our large bimini erected - it is the full length of our centre cockpit and together with our sprayhood gives good shade - and it is hard to understand how people can sail at this time of the year with no shelter at all.

our overnight stay was very quiet and we were away early, sailing all the way under a gentle beam wind and arriving in the port of Garrucha at16.00hours. Puerto Garrucha is a small harbour protected by a long breakwater with large ships alongside the quay loading continually with aggregate from a non stop stream of lorries.

We were lucky to find an empty berth in what is a private marina and had to promise to be away after the second day as the berth owner was due back.

The heat was so overbearing we trecked into the local town looking for a large 220v electric fan - our 12v fan was unable to cope - and were pleased to find a very old fashioned ironmonger who appeared to stock everything. The owner looked like he had been trained in "Open all Hours" and was determined that we would not leave without lining his pocket. He won!

Inland Sea, "Red Arrows", jellyfish and Cartagena again.

2008-11-08T20:20:00.016Z

A gentle sail, a narrrow approach with a final passage behind a small island and then a well buoyed twisting channel and the lifting bridge was visible ahead. We knew from the pilot book that the bridge would open at 13.00hrs, but no, the times had changed and it would not open until 14.00hrs so almost two hours to spend tootling up and down the narrow channel - much to the amusement of local boaters in the motor boats who could sail below the closed bridge.

At last! The bridge opens,

Mar Menor ahead.

We motored into the Mar Menor, decided it had not a lot to offer without motoring too far - which would mean a long way to motor back again - so picked up a berth in the marina at the entrance and just inside the opening bridge - charges of 50 Euros almost changed our mind again but instead we resolved to be away in the morning. We left with the 12.00hrs bridge opening, continually overtaken by a stream of local power boats totally oblivious to signs pleading for speed limits to be obeyed and equally oblivious to the efect of their wash on us and the other yachts leaving with us.

Motoring down the channel we were treated to a display by Spanish aerobatic display team, very entertaining but we don't think the Red Arrows have a lot to worry about for the moment!

Again, a narrow and well buoyed channel behind another island, a rather gusty offshore wind but full sail set. By 14.00hrs we were well reefed with the wind rapidly backing and, with seas rapidly building, we sought shelter in Cabo Palos, a bay well sheltered behind a headland. It was a good decision (always worth a mention!) and we were soon lying quietly to anchor, several other boats joining us during the afternoon. A down side was the vast number of jellyfish which prevented us swimming.

The following morning 26th July we were away early in the hope of avoiding the strong early afternoon winds we had experienced - and paid for this by having to motor all the way to Cartagena and when we arrived at 13.00hrs it was still absolutely windless! It did get quite windy in the late afternoon. We enjoyed a couple of days in Cartagena, the sun shone non stop, it was extremely hot and we spent quite a lot of time in the marina swimming pool. A really excellent marina, good facilities, very helpful marineros and ony 21 Euros a day. The skipper even found time for a haircut - a worrying time as he knew the mate was taking advantage of his absence by visiting the splendid shopping centre - and that was before he found a short back and sides was "15Euros - Gracias, Senor" Once again a Spaniard who could only speak English in numbers and Euros. A very pleasant stay though and we would definitely recommend Cartagena as a destination.

Agua Freddo, Alicante and Torrevieja

2008-10-31T17:20:00.003Z

We were away by 09.30 and enjoyed force 3s and 4s, a superb beam reach on the starboard tack and with very little traffic, although we slowly overhauled another Red Ensigned yacht, a 38ft Ketch, and were unreasonably delighted when we slowly left her behind as we approached Alicante Bay - the conditions we had that day were certainly Sundancer's favourite. Late afternoon we dropped anchor of Agua Freddo, a suburb of Alicante, with an anchorage for perhaps 10 boats or so in fairly shallow water, followed in shortly by the ketch we had encountered earlier. Clair from the ketch swam over and invited us over for a glass of wine and we had a very pleasant evening and also refreshed our saloon shelf with a very welcome book swop - always a highlight of cruising.

A pleasant morning and we were quickly away, bound for Torrevieja. Clear of the anchorage, we were soon hoisting sail, close hauled in the hope of clearing the headland on one tack.

Bang!! With absolutely no warning our mainsheet car fell apart, wheels and axles flying across the aft deck. A quick inspection showed a need for spare parts we did not carry on board so we quickly changed course for Alicante Marina on the other side of the bay. We would hopefully find suitable spares in the chandlery there - alas, the chandlery closed for the weekend at 13.00hrs, half an hour before we got there! Only in Spain would a chandlery close for the weekend on what one would expect to be their busiest days.

Monday morning provided some spares for a temporary repair which took perhaps an hour, but we had some business to attend to so in the event we did not leave till the Tuesday morning at 10.00hrs.

We had another very pleasant day, although our mainsheet track was now non adjustable because of our temporay repair, and anchored in Torrevieja outer harbour at 16.30hrs. There were a few local boats anchored with their crews fishing or swimming but within an hour or so we were alone, enjoying swimming in the late afternoon - and still hot - sun.

The anchorage was very sheltered and after a quiet night and early swim we dinghied ashore and found a little roadside cafe where we were almost overwhelmed by their menu del dia, 3 excellent courses for 10 Euros and no extra charge for an additional beer, nor for the coffee - fantastic!

Then another vey quiet night and an early(ish) start for Mar Menor, a large inland sea approached by a short canal via a lifting bridge, and which we had previously visited by car some years previously.

More Moraira

2008-10-30T21:31:00.007Z

Fiesta time in Moraira

We anchored in Moraira Bay at 15.00hrs, in a small space amongst the many small local boats their family crews enjoying the sunshine and swimming. We'd had a cracking sail and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing. Early evening many small boats had gone back to their nearby berths and by nightfall there were perhaps a dozen yachts left at anchor. The weather forecast for the following day was bad and we expected the anchorage to be busy as boats assembled before the sail to Ibiza, Moraira being the nearest port to the island.

We enjoyed a settled night although the noise from discos in the town and lots of fireworks were intrusive.

The following day proved the forecast to be accurate and there were gales all around and several boats arived in the very sheltered bay - altho' an unpleasant swell built up as the day wore on. We rejected the idea of going in the marina as we remembered rafting out 6 or 7 deep on our previous visit.

We stayed at Moraira for 6 days, enjoyed mooching ashore and watching a fiesta and procession, but keeping a watchful eye on the weather. We had suffered a lot of heavy rain and thunder and lightning and even the little local boats had avoided the bay although we weren't too unhappy at the absence of ski boats and pwc.

18th July, the forecast was OK, the sun was shining, the winds were fair and we were away by 09.30, Allicante or thereabouts our destination.

The Spanish Main(land)

2008-10-30T20:59:00.009Z

Fiesta day again in Denia

Away at 08.00 and motoring through the anchorage before hoisting full sail as we cleared the headland. Our destination was Moraira or, depending on wind direction, Denia . We were soon hard on the wind but able to make our course for Moraira although the seas were quite big with a very unpleasant swell and as the wind veered during the morning it seemed more likely that we would settle for the more comfortable course to Denia - no great hardship. It proved a hard days sail, the seas quite uncomfortable and when we entered Denia at 20.15 we we well and truly done in. But it was nice to be back again and the ever helpful staff soon had all the usual red tape sorted.

A bit of a shock were harbour fees, we had enjoyed some beautiful anchorages, and everyone for free!

One thing didn't change and our night was again disturbed by noisy parties ashore. Our morning was spent repairing our stanchion and then into town after lunch. Town was shut for a fiesta, Great. But the restaurants were open so we ate out. The 11th July and another celebration of some sort - not sure what, not sure if even the locals knew - but it included the running of bulls through the streets so we went along to look. A bit of a letdown as the bulls looked very young and harmless and were very confused - they certainly didn't look terribly fierce. And then another noisy night and another rubbishy forecast so we went for a swim forgetting how awful the local beach was.

13th July Forecast iffy but left at noon for Moraira, only round the corner, maybe 3/4 hours

Formentera....... part two!

2008-10-30T16:35:00.013Z

Right: damaged by boarders

Below: BBQ looking good

Sorry, but I just like looking at the anchorage!

The following day - 2nd July - was another gruelling day, swimming from the boat and a trip to the beach by dinghy to get a different view. And an evening on board "Sundancer" with Ken and Louise, and Pat and Roy from "Infinity" who had now also arrived from Ibiza and who we knew from our winters in Torredembarra. We spent the next couple of days socialising and swimming, even venturing ashore for a stroll on a couple of occasions.

On the 6th we visited San Francisco - the local town - to watch Lewis Hamilton win the British Grand Prix in a local bar. Later that evening we went aboard "Ipsos" for a BBQ only to be interupted by a large Spanish Motoryacht trying to share our buoy - they had apparently reserved the buoy in advance but were not prepared to wait for us to move. They had boarded our unattended boat and were trying to winch themselves alongside using our stanchions as strongpoints - they had already pulled out a stanchion from the deck. A fracas ensued during which they denied having damaged us and physically tried to ram us as we were trying to board from our dinghy. Many local and visiting Spanish boats had seen what was happening and several came to our assistance, eventually driving off the intruder. We were visited by many tenders with people apologising for the antics of their fellow countrymen against a visitor - they could not have been more helpful and we were very grateful.

The following morning the marinero visited as he had heard something of the happenings. After confirming our report with other boaters he returned and apologised on behalf of the authority and asked if we would talk to the police with a view to prosecuting. He understood when we explained that we did not want to waste a lot of time in a long drawn out procedure.

Our BBQ eventually restarted and a good evening was had, rounded off (unfortunately) by a party on the nearby shore accompanied by beating drums until 5.30am. We often had cause to wonder when the Spanish slept.

The following day we said goodbye to our friends and retired ready for an early departure to the mainland.

Formentera and Espalmador

2008-10-30T15:24:00.015Z

Espalmador - as close to perfection as you can get!

We left Cala San Vicente at 11.00 with very favourable winds and flat seas. With all sails pulling hard and the Autohelm doing all the boring stuff it was a day for odd chores on deck and, in Hazel's case, below decks. It was, some might claim, perhaps, an odd time to choose to clean the forward heads. Certainly, the decision to flush the sparklingly clean loo, without first removing the cleaning cloth was not the best idea and explained the shamefaced expression as Hazel emerged. Her opening remark "Err, David!" hinted of more to come!

Still, what else was to be done when arriving at the magical anchorage of Espalmador other than dismantle the heads? 'Nuff said, or a skippers privileges might be worth nothing!

We had a truly superb sail, sparkling seas, steady wind, hot sunshine - what we were there for after all!

Espalmador and Formentera are part of a small string of islands off the SE corner of Ibiza and as we approached the narrow channel between Espalmador and the mainland, the winds freshened as they funnelled through the gap and the seas became quite disturbed. We reefed down and we soon gybing to port, a very crowded anchorage opening up ahead.

There are, in fact, few opportunities to anchor as the authorities have provided many mooring buoys to protect the sea bed and a rare species of weed which grows there. We had quick scoot round, saw our friends Moody "Ipsos" already moored there, then saw what appeared to be the only vacant buoy in the bay - and another Brit boat saw it about the same time as us - the race was on!!! An impromptu crew briefing followed on how to get to the buoy first and how to pick it up first time - before the competition in their Sadler 34 leapt in if we missed!

We got there first, Hazel picked it up first time with the boathook and the crew of a local boat broke out into applause - we hadn't realised our "race" had been so obvious but we all had a good chuckle about it, well maybe not all; although the Sadler crew picked up a buoy themselves fairly soon.

So, the end of a good day! Not really, all this before 15.30hrs, so a quick leap over the side into crystal clear waters before yours truly immersed himself into the joys of blocked heads - a pleasure all sailors are well briefed on.

Meanwhile, Ken and Louise had returned to "Ipsos" and seeing "Sundancer" berthed Ken had rowed over - he declined the invite to come aboard when he saw the assorted plumbing and pipes being cleaned in the cockpit but invited us over for drinks later!

And so a super day continued late into the evening as we caught up on a summer's sailing over a glass or two.

From Mallorca to Ibiza

2008-10-29T19:33:00.019Z

Left and below, Santa Eulalia. Right Cala St. Vicente , bottom right the Town Hall Square

Although it would be hard to tire of Mallorca we had seen lots of new places and had managed a "circumnavigation". It was time to move on, we had arranged to meet friends in Ibiza and, before then, we wanted to have another look at the island. So, on 27th June we left the beautiful anchorage of Cala Portals at 08.45 with the promise of another hot, sunny day. We were planning to make Cala St. Vicente on the NW corner of Ibiza. A beautiful days sail ensued, the highlight a large pod of dolphins who visited us briefly - from the disturbed surface of the sea they appeared to be busy feeding and did not give us much attention and were quickly left behind.

As we approached the island the wind backed noticeably and where we had expected a sheltered anchorage we found a considerable on shore swell and we decided to try Santa Eulalia instead. We arrived at 19.45, anchoring about 150 metres off the beach, taking care to leave sufficient space for the trip boats and local ferries using the little pier about 100 metres away - if we were to make life difficult for them they could easily give us uncomfortable times. Our anchorage was shared by a 26foot yacht, single handed by an elderly German who was about 100 metres away - it was idyllic, very sheltered and a quick pull ashore with the dinghy.

After a peaceful night we were woken early by an arriving trip boat who gave us plenty of clearance and quickly onloaded its tourists and were away again within 10 minutes. We spent a pleasant day in the very pretty little town and were surprised to find that Spain were playing Germany the following night in the European Cup Final - and a huge screen was being erected outside the town hall to screen it. Even more surprising was a Spanish victory but we enjoyed a super evening at a pavement bar in the town hall square - the atmosphere was amazing and the victory promised celebrations long into the night (as if the Spanish need an excuse to party)

The following morning we left early for Cala St. Vicente, our original intended landfall. We stayed there for a couple of days, the Cala very much a hotel resort, but pretty none the less, and we enjoyed a couple of runs ashore between swims.

July 1st and time to head off for Formentera and Espalmador, reportedly beautiful islands to the south and a favourite destination of friends Ken and Louise from Torredembarra who would probably be there already in their Moody 376.

Cala Portals

2008-10-28T19:12:00.010Z

Cala Portals is a truly magnificent spot with only one downside - everyone and his dog thinks so and it gets very crowded. We had visited the cala some years previously but had been unable to find space to drop our hook so were delighted after a pleasant jolly across from Palma to find space. Initially, we anchored close to the tiny marina but were able to move further into the bay late in the afternoon when a local boat went home - to Palma we assumed.

We stayed there for a couple of days, swam from the boat a lot, shouted greetings to other fellow Brits as they arrived and left but never actually ventured ashore - mainly because there is not a lot to venture ashore for, the joy of the place is very much on and around the water.

Porto Petro (briefly) and Palma (yes, again)

2008-10-28T17:08:00.010Z

Left: across Palma Bay again

Right: Good food (and a drop of Rose)

22nd June and our wedding anniversary on the 23rd, so we decided to move on to Porto Petro and see if we could find a nice restaurant for dinner. So it was we weighed anchor after breakfast and enjoyed a good sail to Petro. Good wind again and a flat sea, our fears of another year of awful weather were fading to the back of our minds - the bad start to our season had not been encouraging.

We dashed ashore late afternoon to sus out the town and found a very nice restaurant next to a beach where we could pull the dinghy ashore. We had an excellent coffee and a Drambuie or two, returning to the boat looking forward to the morrow.

The night didn't live up to the day and we suffered a very rolly time with little sleep. Despite enjoying our brief time the previous day we didn't fancy an uncomfortable stay and it didn't take much persuasion before we decided to take advantage of the wind and dash down the coast to Palma - those who have paid attention may know that it is a great favourite of ours!

And what a good decision it was, superb winds, a very enjoyable scream across Palma Bay, a lovely dinner and then music and fireworks in the Jardin de Mar - apparently celebrating St Juan's Eve and not our anniversary!

The following day was spent mooching about the city and on the 25th we left Palma (for the last time???) for Cala Portals, a quick trip to the north of Palma Bay.

Next stop Porto Colom

2008-10-28T14:49:00.016Z

We cleared the river by 11.00hrs, hoisted full sail and enjoyed a gentle reach along the coast, heading into wind and dropping all sail as we entered the beautiful harbour at about 14.30. First impressions of Porto Colom were extremely favourable.

We spent a couple of days mooching round the town, swimming from the boat and enjoying just a few of the many waterside bars and restaurants. Porto Colom was one of our favourite spots on Mallorca - all the facilities but yet retaining a lot of its original charm. Although it was still early in the season we were surprised how quiet everywhere was - we had been lea d to expect full anchorages and little space (and time) for visiting yotties but we have never felt anything other than welcome everywhere in Spain and the Islands.

Porto Cristo

2008-10-28T13:27:00.011Z

Left The skipper cleaning a fish fresh from a local boat. Right The viiew from the town quay

We enjoyed a very leisurely breakfast in the cockpit with a fine day expected and slipped out of the bay at 08.00. The wind was light and we motor sailed, under mainsail only, the sea very flat and sighted the lighthouse marking the entrance to the river after a couple of hours. We found the entrance very busy with trip boats continually coming and going. The town quay to starboard was full and we reluctantly turned to port where the rather grand Club Nautico had a few empty berths and we were met by a very helpful marinero who quickly and efficiently helped us tie up. The weather seemed to have settled at long last and an afternoon on the local beach was called for - a beautiful beach with sparkling water despite the constant traffic of trip boats.

We enjoyed our visit but berthing on the town quay is limited to 3 nights and we didn't fancy anchoring in the exposed river entrance, choosing to sail for Porto Colom on the 22nd.

A rare treat, we found free Wi Fi access for visitors and enjoyed catching up with family and friends, e mails flying back and forth.

Later in the day we walked upriver, crossing the bridge into town, and enjoyed the freshly restocked supermarket - fortunately the lorry drivers' strike had ended quickly. The following morning we saw an empty space on the town quay and quickly slipped the short distance across the river - not only was the town quay cheaper it was more convenient to get into the rather nice town and we intended to stay for a couple of days.

Overnight anchor at Cala Guya

2008-10-28T13:08:00.006Z

Cala Guya looked pretty unspoilt and sheltered from our pilot book and chart. It is a fairly wide bay on the north east coast of Mallorca, split into two calas by a longish spit of land. The northern cala looked the better sheltered, although narrow and deep water only in the middle with limited swinging room. As the bay opened it became clear that most visitors had already opted for the shelter and we went for the southern side, already occupied by half a dozen visitors but we were able to anchor about 250 metres off a very popular beach. The Cala had obviously been subject to quite to quite a lot of development since our pilot's publication, apartments and hotels looking very new and the beach very busy with a choice of several beach bars.

Our plans for a swim from the boat were quickly amended when we realised the water was as well populated as the beach - but by jellyfish !!! - possibly harmless but pretty ugly and best avoided.

We enjoyed a quiet night at anchor after raiding the tins again for dinner - the lorry drivers' strike was over but we did not know that yet!

Soller to Pollensa, then Cala Guya

2008-10-19T11:26:00.028Z

Everyone enjoys the beach at Pollensa, even an egret.

We were away from Soller by 9.00hrs chasing a very variable wind for an hour or so before we gave up, dropped all sail and relied on the trusty Yanmar, berthing at 16.00hrs. We tried shopping but found a lorries drivers strike on the mainland leaving the shelves empty and not a piece of meat anywhere. Back aboard to find the tin opener and a quick rummage in the lockers found a tin of ham.

The following day we found a whole cooked chicken lurking at the back of the supermarket shelf ! We briefly wondered whether to try and auction it back on the pontoon !

The Sunday was Father's Day back at home so the skipper was treated to lunch at the Cantina - fresh sardines - deelicious, who needs meat? Well, I do actually!

Monday morning, 16th June we dropped our lines at 10.00 hrs and hoisted full sail. We were just able to maintain our course although within the hour the wind started building and we reefed the main, although still able to make the course. The sea was unusually flat and we enjoyed a very pleasant day, Cala Guya our planned overnight anchorage.

Palma again

2008-10-18T18:46:00.013Z

dancing outside the town hall in Soller

The entrance to Soller (below) and the new pontoon (left) with a tram crossing the bay

28th May and back in Palma again - and we were pleased to be there - Honest! But we were definitely getting brassed off with the weather - it all felt a bit like 2007 again. BUT, we persuaded ourselves, but , it is almost June and Summer must be near!

In the meantime we spent a day in town, then took the train to Soller on the following day and then spent the last day in May being rained on again - but, it was settling down nicely, there was, after all ,no thunder or lightning.

JUNE 1st - Summer here - like hell, it p**d all day!!! But the following day we pottered down the coast to Illetas, a beautiful set of anchorages with shelter available from almost every direction, and dropped anchor about 14.00hrs behind the island. But we suffered a very rolly night and we were entertained by a Westerly Fulmar having great difficulty getting it's anchor holding although eventually it was third time lucky. The following day was "so so", we actually managed a swim, as we did on the following few days as we enjoyed a settled period and a very quiet anchorage.

On the 5th we weighed anchor after breakfast, initially motoring across Magaluf Bay, then raising full sail as we turned northwards for Soller, anchoring at about 17.30 hrs just off the beach in the middle of the bay. Soller had changed a lot since we had last sailed in about 5 years previously, or at least the harbour had, and now even had a visitors pontoon and good showers. We spent an uncomfortable night at anchor and as our Navtex forecast a rubbish few days we motored over to the pontoon. We were surprised to see old friends from the previous year greeting us from the pontoon shortly after we had put the kettle on. Gill and Malcolm had heard we were in Soller and had trained over from Palma to see us - a very pleasant surprise and we spent a short coffee break with them - their visit was brief as they had friends with them and were due to meet up again for their train back to Palma.

We spent the next few days doing the touristy things and left on 10th for a day sail to Cala Colobra and enjoyed a flat sea and gentle off shore breezes. The forecast was for strong winds the following day and on returning to Soller and anchoring we were visited by a marinero warning us of a tornado expected the following morning - it never arrived and perhaps he had been "encouraging" visitors to the pontoons.

The following day dawned with thunder and lightning again but we managed a swim or two but following another roly night decided it was time to move on - Pollensa, round the northern corner of the island, our next destination

Any port in a storm

2008-10-14T17:16:00.010Z

We may have arrived in a favourite spot but we had not left the weather behind and we were barely settled in our berth when yet another electrical storm rolled in. Our log continued to record storm after storm for the next few days but come the 26th of the month and with the promise of better weather we slipped our lines after a quick lunch and headed for Puerta La Rapita, only 25 miles to the north east.

We picked up a line on the town quay in the entrance to the port, a little exposed and surrounded by charter boats. Most charter yachts seem to be crewed by 8 males, perhaps more interested in drink than sailing ,and we had learned that an excess - more than one - (or "a Binge" as we termed them) of charterers did not bode well for a peaceful night.But most charterers had something else to think about that night and the violent electrical storm that hit us in the early evening kept most crews out of the cockpit and battened down below -the weather very much a mixed blessing as far as we were concerned.

Having paid 48.40 Euros for pretty poor facilities we were shocked to find we then had to pay 1 Euro each in the morning for a shower - we felt rather fleeced in Rapita and were anxious to move on SAP, but not yet, unfortunately.

The following night was totally ruined by severely yobbish behaviour on a neighbouring boat, flying a German ensign, but we were well aware that nationality was never a guide in such matters. But, we had had enough of La Rapita and were determined to move on. But the weather forecast was very much against us so we decided to run back to Palma where we could at least enjoy a favourable wind and much better facilities at more moderate cost. We would circumnavigate Mallorca in an anticlockwise direction rather than our original plan.

So, we were slipped our lines and enjoyed an invigorating sail back, a very fast broad reach across Palma Bay under full sail and hardly troubled by the very choppy waters.

A bit late but Mallorca it is!!!

2008-10-13T15:29:00.010Z

Sundancer, on a "borrowed" buoy at Andratx

14th May. Left at 8.20 for Port Andratx, Mallorca about 55 miles away and our original planned destination when we left Torredembarra and before we got seduced by good winds and found ourselves in Ibiza. Initially, we were headed by very light winds and motored up the coast. On clearing the northern end of the island and once out of the lee of the land we found a good easterly and were soon enjoying a broad reach under full sail. The wind freshened as we left Ibiza astern and we were soon romping along showing 6.5 knots, 7.0 in gusts although the seas were also building and we were shipping the odd green one. By 17.30hrs we had picked up an empty buoy, delighted to be back in Andratx, a favourite of ours from some years before in our previous boat, although we might have overlooked the rather rolly nights we had experienced at anchor previously (in times before buoys had been laid)

Our memory was to be given a very sharp reminder that night and it was not a hard decision later the following day after suffering the swell rolling in for too long, to retreat to the marina - although our berth was on the outside of the end pontoon and still not totally protected and as the seas had settled down by the following morning we motored out and picked up the buoy again. We were visited later that day by the owner of the buoy who told us we were welcome there for another few days as his own boat had not yet been relaunched.

We spent the next few days getting to know the port again and were pleased that not too much had changed. But we had our fair share of rain and after a couple of days of almost non stop electrical storms we decided it was time for a change of scenery and back to another old favourite - Palma where we had bought our previous boat and had kept it in Club Nautico Marina for a year or so.

Bright Sparks

2008-10-12T16:16:00.015Z

Cala Salada, Ibiza, for lunch

5th May Our smart 75amp alternator and its fancy (but kaput) regulator were soon despatched to the back of the locker and the original, puny (but working) 55 amp alternator were refitted and the wiring modified accordingly. All systems go again. We don't have radar, plotters and the other power guzzlers so how mant amps do we really need? No doubt we'll find out some dark, stormy night!

6th May. Noon - again and we were off - again! The marina very generously didn't charge us for the extra 2 nights - they obviously didn't want to delay our leaving! Good wind today, a good forecast and we were soon bowling along on a close reach on starboard tack. Fantabulous! Port Andratx in Mallorca was our aim but we were enjoying the wind so much that when we realised that by holding the course we could make Puerto San Antoni in Ibiza on one tack (if the wind stayed) we quickly said "Go for it". We enjoyed a good overnight passage under full genoa and one reef in the main and picked up a buoy at 14.00 hrs. After our usual cuppa we looked at each other and asked "What we doing here, we wanted to be in Mallorca" It seemed a good idea at the time as we had not been to Ibiza before. And it had been a superb sail!

The next few days in San Antoni were distinctly forgetable. The frequent electrical storms were only interupted by heavy rain although our log does record one fine morning and we did manage a quick sail to Cala Salada, an hour to the north where we dropped our hook for a spot of lunch before returning to San Antoni to enjoy another evening with the bay lit up by almost non stop lightning.

2008 A New Season

2008-10-12T15:41:00.010Z

"Moja" whale hunting under Cap'n (Jonah )Malcolm

We arrived back in Torredembarra , after a winter home in the UK, in April ready for the usual fitting out, craning out for anti fouling and a minor repair on the gearbox - just new seals as I was fed up with cleaning the bilges

Sundancer from Moja

It was nice to catch up with old friends and despite an excess of socialising we were ready to move on by the start of May.

4th May 2008 We watched many of our friends leave onboard "Moja "for a jolly in the bay as there were reports of a large pod of whales about. We cast off at midday in gentle winds and were enjoying a close reach on starboard tack when we saw whales ourselves to starboard and Moja to port. After posing for piccys (us, not the whales) we were soon on our way again, motorsailing by now as the wind had all but disappeared. A quick dash below to do a bit of chartwork revealed the unmistakeable smell of overcharging batteries and the instruments soon confirmed that we were charging at 18v+ - our so called "smart" regulator was being a bit dumb and as we had about 100 miles ahead of us the sensible decision seemed to be to go back and sort things out. By motoring very slowly and keeping the engine revs low we were able to limit the alternator output and eventually we slunk back very quietly into our previous berth.

A highlight (the only one) on the way back was the sight of a very colourful turtle paddling magestically out to sea, totally untroubled by thoughts of batteries and alternators. We kept a very low profile that evening before tackling the alternator the following morning.

The Final Push

2007-12-10T21:17:00.002Z

Torredembarra and its beautiful lighthouse was to be our landfall!

Sunday, 16th September, 2007, 09.30 and we slipped our lines in a gentle westerly and promises of N/E breezes later. We found the harbour very busy with lots of boat movements and we gave the traffic a wide berth before settling on our course. We were able to make our course, close hauled on starboard, full sail, a flat sea, beautiful! Would it last - of course it would, and, unusually, it did!

By 20.00 hours we were getting ready for the night and put a single reef in the main - no real need but it made for a quiet night, Hazel was never totally relaxed on watch at night with full sail. We crossed the estuary of the Ebro in the night, a wide river entrance with large sandbanks far out to sea needing a wide clearance. We saw many fishing boats - or at least we saw many sets of very bright deck lights but none came close enough to trouble us.

Daylight dawned promising another fine day and by 06.30 we were enjoying breakfast in the cockpit and looking forward to our landfall.

We entered Torredembarra harbour, an old friend from a couple of years previously, at 09.00 and were soon given a berth. This was to be our home, or to be more accurate, the boat's home for the winter. We were to fly home for the winter, but not 'till mid October. In the meantime we would get to know the old place again and meet some old friends.

The Last Leg??

2007-12-02T17:49:00.001Z

(L) Dolphins - frequent visitors.

(R) a rib taxi from the marina office - 2km+ from our berth!

14th September saw us leaving Denia at 09.30. The forecast not encouraging but on the basis that most forecasts had been wrong we thought we'd give it a whirl anyway. We found a very lumpy sea with very variable winds altho' mainly from the N -N/W. We were motorsailing with 2 reefs in the main and 2 big tucks in the genoa and we were soon suffering squalls passing over fairly frequently. By 13.00hrs the seas were easing and the wind backing and we were coming round to the view that our decision had been a good one. WRONG!!!!

By 14.30 the seas were building again quickly and it was very squally. By 15.00 we were being battered by winds and a continuous downpour. Shortly afterwards the autohelm failed, it was constantly disengaging and it was necessary to helm in the teeming rain. Oh, we had, of course, decided by then to make for Valencia (there's a surprise).

It rained non stop and we eventually made Valencia just after nightfall, we were met outside the marina entrance by a very helpful marinero in a rib and he escorted us to a berth and helped us to secure our lines. It was a great help as we were extremely cold and wet. He told us that there was extensive flooding within the city.

Unfortunately, our berth was over 2km from the offices but we got a lift in the rib the following morning to sort out payment and paperwork but we decided to rest for the day and leave the following morning altho' we barely dared to whisper our intended destination - Torredembarra!

In the meantime the autohelm had proved a moments work to adjust.

R & R in Denia Town

2007-12-01T16:20:00.000Z

First things first -we were staying here for 3 weeks or so and we unloaded our bikes. Travelling tied to our pushpit they suffer a bit so it was out with the oilcan and airpump and a bit of overdue servicing. Then it was off to sus the town out, find out where the supermarket was and who served the best coffee. We found the town every bit as attractive as expected and agreed our decision to stay was a good one. Although there was not supposed to be a Wi Fi Hotspot we found one and logged on very happily - we had a hire car to organise for our trip to Italy. As always, the internet came up trumps and Avis wanted a very modest amount for a weeks hire with no mileage limits and no problem going from Spain, thro' France to Italy and back altho' they might have been surprised to see 3500km on the clock afterwards!

Our only real disappointment with Denia was the lack of a decent beach to swim from but we did have the rooftop pool back at the marina. We very much enjoyed our time here altho' we found the drive to Italy - 3 days each way - hard work, the wedding was everything it should have been, the venue on the Amalfi Coast absolutely magnificent and the little port of Maratea beautiful. What a shame we didn't make it by boat! Once back on board we gave ourselves a day or two to recover then it was out with the charts and back to sea again - Torredembarra in one go? We'd try but wouldn't be surprised if the wind and weather had it's own plans.

Denia town - full of lovely squares,

a delight every day

Off from Moraira

2007-12-01T15:17:00.000Z

The rooftop pool (left) and Denia Marina

The morning turned out fine but strong winds were forecast for later in the day. We decided to stick to our plan for Torredembarra but with a weather eye on plan C if the promised winds blew in. By leaving at midday we would have the option of Denia, less than 20 miles round the corner although reported to be a very expensive marina.

Once out of the shelter of the harbour and the lee of the headland it very soon became clear that we were in for a bit of a bashing as the seas were already pretty big with a very uncomfortable swell from ahead. We had a reef in the main and a big tuck in the genoa to reduce speed and make the slamming as tolerable as possible. After a couple of hours we decided that as we could lay a course for Denia we would bear away and test the comfort of the course. An easy decision as the new course was much more comfortable and we were able to unroll some genoa and crank up the speed.

We had been disappointed by wind and weather so often that replanning had become much easier and less heartache was involved.

We enjoyed a fast reach into Denia and by 16.30 were talking on VHF to the marina arranging a berth. We entered with a ferry which had just returned from Mallorca and did not overly enjoy the irony when we realised how easily and how quickly she had probably made the passage. We passed the private Club Nautico to starboard and shortly turned the corner to see a marinero waiting to help us into our berth. We soon found that Denia was not the most expensive marina but certainly it was the best equipped we had seen and the staff were extremely helpful and efficient as they dashed around on their electric powered (plus traditional pedals) bikes. They would even stop and help the ladies ashore from passarelles or, in our case, when clambering over the pulpit. The facilities included superb shower suites with shower, handbasin and W.C all in spacious private rooms decorated and tiled beautifully - oh, and background music too!

And on the roof above the offices a lovely swimming pool with bar and restaurant and the most decadent (indeed, almost erotic) lounge areas - and all free (no, not the bar, just the swimming).

It was an easy decision to turn our plans on their head again - once we'd checked out the town we decided we deserved a bit of R & R and decided to stay in Denia until after the wedding in Italy and we would hire a car and drive there.

Alicante to Moraira

2007-11-14T19:41:00.000Z

Overlooking Moraira Harbour

We were still calling in ports that we had not planned to but were still clinging to the belief that Italy was still possible and Moraira was but a short hop to Ibiza, the westernmost island in the Ballearics but from where we could access Mallorca and then Sardinia fairly easily.

Sunday, 19th August saw us dropping our lines at 10.30 with 10 kts of wind on the nose and back to our all too usual motoring into headwinds. We entered the small but extremely busy port of Moraira at 18.30 and having received some rather confusing and contrary instructions from the Capitanerie and the marinero in the RIB rafted alongside a visiting Spanish yacht near the entrance.

Ashore for the evening we found a very pleasant little town although considerably larger than suggested by our very aged pilot book. Many times we noticed vast changes in towns from the details given in older editions of pilot books.

The forecast was still unpredictable and we were seeing continually changing weather patterns. After listening to the whistling winds for several days we finally accepted the inevitable and put Italy off our agenda - we would have to rely on more reliable and less weather influenced transport than sailing boat!

Plan 'B' was to make for Torredembarra, 40 miles or so south of Barcelona, where we had a berth for the winter. Having made the decision we decided to leave at noon on the 22nd August with an overnight passage direct to Torredembarra.

Cartagena to Torrevieja to Alicante

2007-10-29T21:30:00.000Z

Alicante Castle

We stayed in Cartagena for a couple of days which were quite enjoyable, we had visited before by car some 4 years previously but we were anxious to be on our way as time was rapidly running out if we were to make Italy. In view of the unsettled forecast and remembering the awful weather we had constantly encountered, not to mention our forced diversion to Cartagena, we decided to coastal hop to Denia and then reassess our ability to make Italy. We were worried that we might get as far as the Ballearics, or even Sardinia, and then get port bound by the weather. At least if we stayed on the mainland we had other options available - Mr Ryan and his aeroplanes were usually available fairly nearby as long as we were on the mainland.

So, August 14th saw us bound for Torrevieja. A fairly routine passage with variable winds sawn us motor sailing too much but we did enjoy a couple of hours of goodish winds when the Yanmar was silenced for a well earned rest and we arrived in Torrevieja just as night was falling. The following day saw us off to Alicante, a city we were familiar with from our visit by car of 4 years previous and one we were looking forwards to revisiting. We left with a favourable S Easterly blowing about 14 knots and with a bit of a swell on the nose but the boat found it very comfortable and with a single reef in the main we were enjoying 6 knots plus.

Our plan included a passage inside Isla de Tabarca but, as we approached ,the narrow channel seemed totally blocked by a well marked fish farm and our passage chart was not to a scale to allow us to identify a safe passage so a beat into the big seas and 22kt winds to allow us to pass round the eastern end of the island seemed inevitable. Fortunately, a fast ferry serving the island from the nearby island appeared and, by carefully watching her course, we were able to pick our way past the fish farm and save ourselves an uncomfortable hour or two. Once through the channel we enjoyed a fast broad reach, gybing twice and entering Alicante with 7.5 knots on the log on occasion. We called the marina on VHF hoping they might allocate us a berth but, no, we had to go alongside the waiting pontoon and visit the office first. Once in the very grand office we were handled very efficiently and were soon berthed comfortably and the kettle on - always the sign of a succesful passage and we never feel we've arrived until we have a mug of tea in hand.

Ballearics - here we come!!!! No? OK Cartagena then!

2007-10-25T20:10:00.000Z

Cartagena Marina

The next leg was the biggy. Our target for some time now had been Maratea, on the Amalfi coast of Italy.
The reason? Hazel's daughter had, in the middle of our trip, announced her wedding there and we, in a moment of delusion had decided we should sail there. The first leg would see us in Palma, Mallorca - not on the direct route but an old favourite of ours from our time there in our previous boat - and Hazel fancied shopping there for her dress and shoes. No, Honest!
So, Friday 10th August saw us filling with diesel, including 60 litres in a couple of cans lashed to the aft lifelines next to our trusty bikes. All being well 5 days should see us in Palma. Forecasts were favourable for the start of our passage but for how long we were not sure - that diesel, all 50 gallons, might come in useful altho' we would need some sailing as we were not quite carrying enough to motor all the way.
Just after midday we cast off from the fuel pontoon and motored out. We had full sail up by the time we were passing Europa point with 10kt Southerlies and 5kts + on the log. Our first waypoint was Avenzear Bank, south of Almeria, and for the first half of the passage we had several bolt holes should the weather let us down again. By 16.30 we had 25 miles under our belt and saw a large tow to starboard. We had received a warning on Navtex but were surprised at the size - a large rig mounted on a barge pulled at about 2kt by what appeared to be an undersize tug working very hard. It took a long time for us to pass ahead of the tow and even then only by about 500 metres.
Shortly afterwards we were joined by several dolphins but they were not as exuberant as usual and only stayed for a few minutes. By 17.00 hours the wind was veering and we changed course accordingly. The wind continued to veer and before long we were motorsailing as we were to continue doing for all that night and much of the following day. The seas were very flat. By 16.00 we were sailing again under full sail with a flat empty sea with a steady 10/11 knots of wind. Midnight brought winds of 22/23 knots and we were double reefed for the rest of the night.
Mid morning on our third day saw 10 knots from SW but with an unpleasant swell building up and by midday we were double reefed with winds freshening and were being battered by a very heavy swell. Life was getting very uncomfortable. By 15.00 winds were 28knots and continuing to freshen and seas were bulding quite quickly and by 16.00 we decided to change course for Cartagena, a course that would give easier seas and a more comfortable passage. We should also be able to make port in daylight.
The decision proved correct and we were soon reduced to a triple reefed main and genoa rolled away. The seas as we entered Cartagena were very difficult and we struggled to maintain our course through the entrance - despite the pilot book's advice that the port was easy to enter in all conditions - and we very pleased to tie up alongside the town quay at just after 20.00hrs

Goodbye Puerto Sherry..... Hello Gibraltar

2007-10-23T15:30:00.000Z

Hooray! Monday 6th August the mast is back in the boat and we've put back all the bits and pieces which we had taken out for access and we've restocked, refueled and watered. Yup. we're actually ready to go again.

We left at 18.00, planning about 16 hours and an 80 mile passage, and were soon reaching across Cadiz Bay with a very pleasant 14kt westerly wind and we enjoyed good westerlies for 5 hours - a very welcome and unusual start to our passage. Spot on midnight we had Cabo Trafalgar abeam and changed course as our GPS told us on the dot of our arrival at the waypoint. Winds had dropped and direction variable but we still managed to avoid engine use and by 03.00 hrs we were enjoying a gentle 6 kts of wind from the south west and showing 4.9 kt speed over the ground. A change of course at 04.00 and before long we were in fairly busy waters as commercial traffic, including 2 cruise liners lit up like Christmas trees, was exiting the Med through The Straits of Gibraltar. The lights of Tangier were clearly visible to starboard and there was a strong sense of excitement on board with the Med immediately ahead and North Africa so close, The Straits seemed incredibly narrow. 09.00 so us picking up a fore/aft mooring in Marina Bay in Gibraltar, right next to the airport runway (which extends into the bay) and surrounded by massive building development. Fore and aft moorings were something we would have to get used to now we were in the Med - we would also need to acquire a passarelle to help getting ashore (perhaps a plank from the mass of building sites might be found - nothing too posh for Sun Dancer after all)

Our initial impression of Gibraltar was not good but we eventually stayed for 3 nights surrounded by fellow Brits and Red Ensigns and thoroughly enjoyed the place - even going by cable car to admire the Apes.

4 whole weeks in Puerto Sherry

2007-10-23T14:55:00.000Z

Well, here's an entry with no sailing at all, no talk of head winds, thunderstorms or other vagaries of boating.

But, there again, Puerto Sherry is one big vagary all on it's own.

About 25 years ago a new marina village was planned, and indeed, much of it was built. But, before it was finished local politics, shortage of funds or some other reason stopped the development and now the village is a mass of derelict and unfinished buildings, sometimes adjacent to finished and occupied housing and the whole area is an absolute mess. Some of the unfinished buildings, although complete with roofs and all major structures, are in such a poor state they will need demolishing once whatever problems exist are sorted out. Several local businessmen told us that they expect development to restart within the year but I suspect they have probably said that for several years. It's a great shame because the marina itself is working fairly well but local property values must be on the floor. There is even a large waterfront hotel, minus windows and internal structures, which has been lying unfinished and abandoned for over 2 decades! Could this happen anywhere other than Spain? The waterfront development of bars and restaurants which you would normally find in a marina village is all but non existant and a month in Puerto Sherry should be avoided by all visitors unless they have need of the local marine engineers or chandlers - who, perversely. were very good and helpful (altho' a little too free with 'Manana' when one is pushing repairs along)

Our bikes were called in use most days to visit the facilities and beaches of the nearby town of Puerto de Santa Maria - a very pleasant spot.

Villamoura to Puerto Sherry (Cadiz)

2007-08-28T20:16:00.000Z

Villamoura was OK but not for us and midday on July 9th (2007) saw us motoring out of the harbour with a promising forecast of good winds. We were planning to make Puerto de Santa Maria, a small privately owned marina on the river with a reputation for making visitors very welcome. All being well we should be there early the following morning as we followed our recent pattern of making overnight passages - never consciously planned ahead but frequently suiting the passages we were making as we found we could make longish hops yet leave and arrive in daylight.

As promised we enjoyed good winds during the afternoon and evening and as darkness approached put a reef in the main and a fairly big tuck in the genoa and enjoyed a broad reach, main prevented as the wind was tending to veer. It was a very dark night with little traffic, we were well offshore and fairly relaxed about the pots and nets which had troubled us a little on the Portugese coast ('tho' generally well lit and marked). At this stage the skipper was enjoying the best sail of the trip, averaging about 6 knots in superb comfort and "Sundancer" enjoying herself too.

About 01.30 with the wind freshening the skipper woke his good lady with the welcome news that she was needed on deck to help reef. We started to roll away the genoa first before putting a second reef in the main but finding it difficult to roll away the last bit, the winch handle was given a bit of a harder turn. Not the answer as obviously there was a problem within the roller reefing/forestay set up - obvious because the forestay suddenly broke at the masthead dumping the whole forestay, roller reefing, genoa in the sea. There was a moments panic - OK, perhaps a moment or two's panic - but the mast was still there, the wind was just aft of the beam and it seemed we had a little time to sort ourselves out before the lot fell in the sea. With the wind freshening by the minute it was obvious that we had to drop the mainsail and we would have to turn in to wind to do it - would the mast survive it? Our spinnaker halyard had snapped off as the forestay broke so was not available as a temporary forestay. We tried calling a coast radio station to advise them of our situation but could get no reply - if we were to lose the mast we would also lose our VHF radio as the aerial was at the top of the mast. We had a hand held VHF but as we were still 25 miles or so offshore it would be out of range.

We then put out an "all ships" pan pan call and were delighted when a fellow Brit responded to say he was also bound for Cadiz and although 5 hours away would change course to liase with us and monitor us on VHF. Then Cadiz radio called to say thay had heard our call but we had not heard their previous response - strange because from then on they were loud and clear throughout the night. They asked if we needed assistance and advised that they had alerted Spanish rescue to our predicament. They agreed to call back in half an hour, by when we hoped to have the mainsail down and our wildy swaying mast secured better - if they were not able to reach us they would call out the rescue services on the assumption that we had lost the mast - a very sobering conversation it was too and perhaps the first time we realised how serious our situation might become. They also advised that the wind strength was forecast to continue rising and seas to roughen - we heard that bit loud and clear, altho' fortunately the forecast was a touch pessimistic and the seas never really became the problem we feared.

In the event we spilled wind from the main as best we could, keeping the wind aft as much as possible, and dragged it down inch by inch, stowing it within it's lazyjack system - no problem. We then used the main halyard and the topping lift as temporary stays, secured to the forward mooring cleats - by this time the seas were building and the wind had reached 32 knots maximum so it all took a long time before we were confident that everything was as secure as it could be. We told Cadiz radio that we were now fairly happy and they agreed to monitor us every hour, and would we please let them know when we safely in Puerto Sherry, an alternative marina in Cadiz bay with better repair facilities than our original plan of Puerto Santa Maria. Our thanks to Cadiz Radio who looked after us on what appeared a very busy night for them with their normal commercial traffic. We also thanked our fellow Brits, who were slowly closing on our position, and advised them that we were OK now - they had been listening to our conversations with Cadiz and were up to speed on events and I don't think we ever told them how comforting it was to know they were close behind us. I am afraid I didn't even remember their name or the boat name the following day but, thanks anyway, guys.

We eventually made Puerto Sherry, tired but relieved and were eventually to spend 4 weeks there waiting for spare parts. Puerto Sherry is a unique and "unusual" port and deserves its own full entry - watch this space!

Lagos to Villamoura

2007-08-28T19:54:00.000Z

Views of Villamoura from the boat

July 8th, we'd very much enjoyed our short stay in Lagos but it was time to look at the fleshpots of Villamoura. A call on VHF at 09.30 saw the pedestrian bridge across the river open almost instantly and we motored out with the very slightest of breezes from the S.E. - as forecast!

By 11.30 we were enjoying a freshening breeze and were able to hoist full sail. !4.30 saw us goosewinged with a preventer on the main with 16 knots up our skirts - oooh! Lovely. By 17.30 we had topped up with diesel and were tied up with the locals on the flimsiest finger pontoons imaginable - we were spoiled by having a whole forward cleat to ourselves but shared a single aft cleat with our motor boated neighbour and his unique style of securing which seemed to require a vast amount of rope and umpteen quite original knots - we never saw him but speculated that he might be japanese with a strong interest in origami.

The evening we spent wandering round the many local cafes and taverns enjoying the undoubted buzz of the place - we even treated ourselves to a coffee and a glass as we people watched - a favourite pasttime of yotties who don't want to spend money!

Sines to Lagos

2007-08-05T20:46:00.000Z

We left Sines at 07.00 on 6th July, 76 miles to Lagos and about 15 hours if to plan. Cabo San Vincente was a major landmark but it was a day of disappointing winds and it was 17.00 before we rounded the Cabo, our course changing from 190 to 138 degrees, and the wind changing up a gear instantly, 16 knots, 20 knots and then 24 knots within minutes. We couldn't bother hoisting mainsail again so rolled out the full genoa and enjoyed a fast broad reach for over three hours with the autohelm controlling us perfectly, although we did feel a touch lazy as the main lay tucked up all the time. We were enjoying our mandatory cuppa - always first job on arrival - at 21.30, courtesy of Cabo San Vincent's famous winds and also courtesy of the very efficient staff at Lagos who had the usual Portugese paperwork done in moments and quickly opened the pedestrian bridge across the river to allow us access to the marina.

Nazare to Sines

2007-08-05T19:46:00.000Z

Left:Vasco da Gama - a native of Sines

Right: across the bay towards the marina at Sines, commercial port behind

June 9th saw us leaving Nazare at 11.30 hours - destination Sines (pronounced Cinish as only the Portugese could do), 119 miles away (maybe 24 hours or so). We enjoyed a gentle s. westerly and with a touch of engine were just about able to make our course altho' the wind veered early afternoon and we furled the genoa and turned up the engine. We were blessed with 17 knots for a couple of hour and managed an enjoyable close reach for an hour or so before the wind faded away and it was back to motor power - and so it was until we eventually tied up in Sines at 15.00 hours. We had seen dolphins again at 08.30, a nice appetiser for breakfast.

We were to spend 3 weeks in Sines - or at least I was - Hazel was to fly home from Lisbon to see her daughter Melanie who was in England from her home in Australia to plan her wedding in Italy in September. We were hoping to get there by Westerley.

We enjoyed our stay immensely, swam off the nearby beach several times (altho' Sines has a large petro chemical port, also a coal shipping quay and a busy fishing fleet the water quality was excellent and the atmosphere free of polution), and walked up the very steep hill by the castle to enjoy coffee or beer in the local bars quite often. A beer or a superb coffee for all of 80 cents - something we enjoyed often in Portugal. Definitely a venue we would recommend.

Back to plan A. Nazare next

2007-07-29T15:47:00.000Z

Left: Cliff railway to Sitio and
right, church in centre of Sitio

The first morning in Figuera (or Fizuera de Fog as we called it) was thick fog and so it gave us a chance to look at the town. Done that so back to the boat and refuel - first chance for a while to fuel alongside so full marks to Fig. de Foz for that. Following morning still foggy but about visibility of one mile and forecast to clear so we left at nine and sure enough fog lifted and we enjoyed a 10 knt S. Westerly which just allowed us to make our course. So a good day's sail and we tied up in the diminutive marina at 17.00 hours. Mike the harbourmaster made famous by the pilot book advised of the imminent arrival of a Rally so he suggested we tuck ourselves in the corner where we would find life quieter.

We enjoyed Nazare, the marina a bit soleless and a fair way from town, but the town was very pleasant and the cliff railway to Sitio allowed spectacular views and a beautiful, if touristy, old part of Nazare at it's peak. Shame it doesn't attract more visitors as we were the only Brit boat there and Portugal may seem very old fashioned and steeped in bureaucracy but the people are friendly and seem to like the Brits visiting them.

Povoa de Varzim to ????????

2007-07-29T15:19:00.000Z

Piccy: Figuera de Foz, from boat

We left Povoa at 09.00, motor sailing in a 10knt N.Westerly planning on an overnighter to Nazare and were soon enjoying a broad reach under full sail - glad really cos we hadn't been able to top up the diesel and were a bit uncertain of enough to get to Nazare if we had to motor much. Plan B was to shorten the passage and call in Figuera de Foz but that meant an entry into a busy fishing port in the dark and didn't really fancy it!

Celebration was too early - what a surprise - as wind decided to play silly beggars and sails were in and out, gybing and gybing back much of the time. Mid afternoon we gybed in front of a big ship, then dropped the main because there was a big swell by now, and ran under genoa only. We half expected some response from the ship as we had left our move a bit late but no problem - not even sure if he saw us. Engine on and off, sails up and down and at 22.30 hours it was decision time. Change the route details on the GPS and make for Figuera. When we saw the size of the fishing fleet leaving the port we wondered on our decision, the sea was a mass (or was it a mess) of white flood lights, bow waves from speeding trawlers and trawls being deployed in staggering haste -. we wondered if anybody would even notice us trying to find the entrance. We made it, amazed to the end by the numbers of small boats line fishing in the marina entrance - once again the pilot book was dead right. We tied up at 02.30 to the visitors pontoon, forced by the local Policia Maritima to do the paperwork before proceeding to our allocated berth. The Portugeese do like there paperwork at any time of day.

Was our change to plan B worth it? Not for us to say, lots of locals probably love it!

Viana do Castelo to Povoa de Varzim

2007-07-23T18:14:00.000Z

The riverfront at Porto

We were pleased to be getting away from Viana (but you probably guessed that). It was a short passage, just over 4 hours, with gentle sou. westerlies and a motor sail under mainsail only. We arrived at 14.50, early for us, were met by a very helpful, English speaking, marinero who gave us an almost formal welcome to his port. We stayed there for five days, enjoying the little port and their staff who could not have ben more helpful. We were a little perturbed by the frequent and unexpected sounding of the siren at the end of the breakwater but were told it operated automatically on humidity levels and was faulty but would be fixed "soon".

We enjoyed the pleasant town - a good walk from the marina - and took a day trip to Porto using the new and very comfortable Metro. Their is also a direct Metro to the airport.

Baiona to Viana do Castelo

2007-07-20T17:42:00.000Z

We were sorry to leave Baiona, especially in view of the lack of wind and the very large swell. Winds were very light and variable in direction and was going be to be another day with lots of engine. Fortunately it was a short hop of 7 hours or so. We managed to get full sail up for the last couple of hours and dropped sail outside where we expected to find the marina entrance, about a mile up river on the port side. But we were met with a closed footbridge across the entrance and a new waiting pontoon in the river. A Brit yacht ahead of us had the same surprise but a marinero quickly appeared with instructions to lie alongside the pontoon and he helped us with lines quite efficiently. We will advise the publishers of the pilot of the new situation altho' they have probably already been told.

A walk over the bridge showed the small marina to be very full and we could only see 1 vacant berth. Even the fuel pontoon was occupied, by a Swedish visitor who was still there when we left, making refuelling difficult - so we didn't.

The swell in the river got very bad during the night and we had an uncomfortable night as did the other three boats now on the pontoon and we hoped that nobody had any plans to raft alongside us. The marinero did offer to find a place inside the following night but we declined as the swell appeared much reduced and we didn't want to delay our departure waiting for the bridge to be opened. What a mistake, the swell returned with the tide (not as bad as previous) and the club next to the pontoon had an all night disco - lovely! Even worse we had three intruders on board at about 4.00am, after our bikes we suspected, but ther fled when they heard us. Viana do Castelo is definitely not in our 'must go back' book and we even texted friends a few days behinds us advising them of our difficulties. Shame, cos it's a lovely little town. Our affection for a town can usually be measured by the numbers of photos taken - Viana? none!

Portosin to Baiona

2007-07-19T18:31:00.000Z

Just some of the sculptures at Baiona

25th May saw us leaving Portosin at 08.30 with8 kts of wind from SSW, on the nose once we left the Ria de Muros. We hoisted mainsail in the hope of some advantage, if only to steady the motion as the sea was a bit lumpy. By 11.30 the wind had backed and freshened enough to allow us to roll out the full genoa altho' we only enjoyed that for a couple of hours before it gradually faded away and once again motor sailing became the order of the day. A large ferry passed us going northwards just after midday but other than that the seas appeared empty. Shortly afterwards two large fins circled us for a couple of minutes but we never saw enough to know what they belonged to - some sort of shark we assumed. During the afternoon a sighting of a small group of dolphins entetained us for 10 minutes or so and we tied up in Baiona at 18.00 hours. First impressions were encouraging and over the next few days Baiona came to be one of our absolute favourite towns - we very much enjoyed the gardens and sculptures which lined some very pleasant walks.

Camarinas to Portosin

2007-07-17T20:18:00.000Z

Left: The gardens at Noia

Right:Santiago de Compostela

A nine hour motor sail, sails up, sails down, engine off, engine on. The usual of late except 2 hours out of Camarinas we saw an enormous group of dolphins who stayed with us for some time and then about 2 hours later another display. As always the sight of dolphins playing around the boat and obviously enjoying themselves so much is fantastic and really quite humbling. We have yet to get piccys of dolphins worth showing but we'll keep trying.

Portosin we enjoyed, took the bus to Noia a couple of times for shopping and market, but again were eventually stuck waiting for the weather. Also a bus ride to Santiago de Compostela, the scene of many pilgrimages today, and its awe inspiring Cathedral. Our friends, Malcolm and Gill in 'Counter Girl' arrived after a couple of days and we enjoyed their company before we left them on 25th May, us for Baiona.

La Coruna to Camarinas

2007-07-17T20:04:00.000Z

The family donkey earns his oats

A fairly short hop and just as well as the wind headed us the whole way and our trip was very much in the hands of our friendly and willing Yanmar. We tied up in Camarinas at 18.00, greeted by a most efficient and enthusiastic marinero - the marina was empty of visitors and we suspect it was the first job he'd had all day. Still, very welcome and 'Gracias, Senor'

Also a pretty dreary place and one we were to get to know too well as were stuck there for 7 days awaiting a decent forecast and listening to howling winds although the winds did drive several more boats in. We did enjoy a couple of long walks and amazed to find fields being ploughed with donkeys and also carts being pulled by them - it seemed a very poor part of Spain

Vi vero to La Coruna

2007-07-17T19:41:00.000Z

We left at 09.50 in company with 'Counter Girl', Suncat bound for La Coruna and a whole new pilot book on the chart table. "Atlantic Spain and Portugal" replacing the North Brittany Pilot which had guided us so well for so long. The sub title on the cover 'La Coruna to Gibraltar' a thrill in itself.

The wind was elusive and flukey and we were constantly trimming and dropping sail and we were reduced to motor sailing for the first 6 hours although we were eventually able to make our course and enjoyed some fine sailing, entering La Coruna at 18.30 under full sail. Our first night was spent at the RCN marina but was rather expensive and we moved the following morning to the Darsena Deportiva - not quite as posh but OK and very close to the town. The only diesel pump available to leisure boats was out of order so as we had been unable to do more than squeeze the odd canfull in for so long we 'borrowed' a supermarket trolley and took our cans for a trip to the local garage and were able to treat Suncat to a whole 50 litres - about 22 hours of use but with the amount of motoring we were doing, not a lot.

We spent 2 days in La Coruna and enjoyed it enormously and would vry much like to revisit in the future.

Ribadeo to Vivero

2007-05-24T18:09:00.000Z

We left Ribadeo on 3rd May, after first adding 25 litres diesel from a can, at noon with a gentle breeze from the west. The wind freshened slightly and veered slightly allowing us a pleasant, although rather leisurely, sail under full main and genoa and we entered the Ria de Vivero at about 17.00 hours and enjoyed a broad reach up the spectacular Ria, wooded hills to both sides and small islands inshore. It was really beautiful and as we approached the marina along a short canal section we anticipated too much from the small town and we rather disappointed by what we found - although the marinero could not have been more helpful. We were pleased to see 'Counter Girl' arrive shortly after us. We stayed for 2 nights but that was probably one too many and left with 'Counter Girl' on the 5th, us bound for La Coruna and our first taste of Galicia. Writing this blog I see we have no piccys of Vivero - says it all - tho' that's a bit harsh as should have photo of entrance to Ria.

Gijon to Ribadeo

2007-05-20T19:09:00.000Z

29th April, a fairly early start - for us 08.15 IS early - and at last we were away from Gijon watched by Malcolm and Gill from 'County Girl', friends we had made in Gijon, who were also up early and waved us away. We were soon making slightly north of west along the coast - always frustrating when you are actually looking to travel south and east - but at least we had north easterly winds if only 6 or 7 knots and we were soon making fair way under full main and genoa and with a reasonably flat sea. 16.00 hours saw a wind shift and we dropped the main and proceeded under full genoa alone as this was most comfortable.

19.30 hours found us entering the small marina under a very impressive road bridge with a very helpful marinero taking our lines. A moments frustration when we found the only electric point we could reach needed a 30amp plug and ours was lurking at the bottom of a spares box and had to be fixed to our extension lead before our kettle could be called to duty - always our first priority when getting in as we get very protective of our bottled gas supply when we are tied up close to electricity. We found Ribadeo a delightful little town although a bit down at heel and rather scruffy round the edges. Altogether though a very pleasant stay and it's aging gentility added very much to the charm.

La Rochelle to Gijon

2007-05-16T20:28:00.000Z

At 14.30 hrs we cast off, waved off by friends, on what was to be our longest passage to date, some 250 miles. The forecast was fair with north easterly winds to speed us on our way sou' westwards although the 8 knots of wind could have been better. Running downwind with engine running to help us clear the busy river entrance and we soon noticed the engine temperature gauge was close to maximum and a look at the exhaust showed we were not pumping out much cooling water. Carry on or turn back? It would have been too disappointing so on we went deciding to keep a very close watch on the problem and hope that we could manage without engine - come on you wind Gods!
48 hours later, mainly with light nor' easterly winds and with a little prudent use of the engine we entered Gijon harbour, finding only one other visitor there (Ken and Sian on Fair Jolanda). The trip had turned out relatively easy, flattish seas, gentle winds but the big surprise was how little we had seen. Very little traffic apart from a few fishing boats as we approached Gijon, one small coaster and virtually no wild life apart from a couple of birds (migrating?) who joined us on board for a short rest just after dawn on the second morning. And a flycatcher of some sort who amused us by his skill at catching flies on the wing - how often we woiuld have liked him to join our little crew earlier
We were also 'buzzed' by a small twin engined private plane on our second morning. It flew round us a couple of times very low and then flew off. We thought he might have been trying to read our name and wondered if he was searching for a particular vessel. We'll never know but it was interesting to see that Chris and Susi on "Tim" experienced a similar thing on their passage a couple of weeks later.
'Persephone' followed us in to Gijon and Malcolm and Gill on 'Counter Girl' arrived the following day. Gijon turned out to be as attractive as first impressions suggested, a good marina and a lovely little town.
First job delegated by the skipper to the first engineer was to solve the overheating - we had arrived in Gijon looking like a steam boat - and the manifold and heat exchanger were soon spread along the pontoon whilst the waterways were re-established with some judicious poking and pushing with various blunt instruments. Job done it was a great pleasure to see lots of water gushing from where there had been only steam before.
As usual a small UK enclave in the corner of the marina found themselves testing local wines and goodies rather too often than was good for them. Gijon was a super spot, we loved it and we loved being back in Spain.

The Big Trip (Part 2)

2007-05-16T20:00:00.000Z

28th March 2007, the date those nice people at Ryanair took us from Stanstead (not so nice) to La Rochelle - a 10 minute drive from the marina. Even nicer a friend of ours met us in his car and drove us straight to the pontoon, together with Susi from yacht "Tim" who had travelled on the same 'plane on her way back from her home in Germany. Hopefully, a few days TLC (on the boat, that is) and we would be ready for Spain!
First, we were asked by the Capitan of the port to move to Minimes, the main marina in La Rochelle, as our winter berth was temporary. A quick motor down river saw us secure on the visitors pontoon where we met up with old friends from the previous year, most of whom had wintered on board.
Engine serviced, new calorifier fitted (at great expense - should have done in UK before leaving but had hoped to replace electric element but could not locate a sutable unit so whole new unit!), and acres of green mould to be scrubbed off decks and fittings and we were ready. Just a bit of socialising, an odd glass of wine and the 18th April saw us casting off from the pontoon, not without a little regret, with Gijon, Northern Spain our destination - some 250 miles as the crow flies (although we never saw him - nor much else)

photo album

2006-12-29T12:55:00.002Z

La Rochelle "Vieux Port"

2006-12-12T15:20:00.000Z

What an entrance - up the very narrow channel with the incoming tide, following the leading lights flashing out from behind the old town walls and between the Tour de la Chaine to port and the Tour St Nicolas to starboard. And then the old town opens up behind the Vieux Port - and a pontoon berth right in the middle for us. Fantastic! As an entrance to a new berth there can't be many better - with the historic old town and a vast choice of pavement cafes laid all round it was a reminder perhaps of Honfleur where we had been a couple of years previously.

We spent a lot of time testing the bars and cafes, not to mention a range of super shops, over the next few days and any thoughts that we had stopped for the winter too early disappeared from mind as we came to appreciate the town more and more.

Several 0ld friends were already in the port and more UK yachts arrived over the next few days and a small enclave of ex pats was quickly established. Bikes were decanted from various lockers and holes and as the surrounding area proved fairly flat a range of supermarkets, launderettes and other essential "attractions" were soon discovered - the main discussions around the pontoons often being the merits of "Champion" against "Carrefour" - superimpose Tesco and Sainsbury as the main players and you could wonder why we had all travelled so far for the experience! And we will look forward to the same tomorrow - and who would seriously suggest shopping on bikes at home? Viva La difference!

La Rochelle

2006-12-12T14:45:00.000Z

Leaving Les Sable was a long awaited pleasure, initially we were headed by the winds but eventually we managed to raise all sail and enjoyed a beat, before the wind backed and allowed us a fair reach, eventually hardening up on wind to go behind Ile de Rey and under the massive road bridge linking the island to the mainland.
Les Minimes marina appeared to starboard about 4.00pm together with lots of marquees, displays and visitors. Welcome to the La Rochelle Boat Show. Shame "there's no space at the inn - unless you can find a space yourselves" - We did - and rafted alonside a resident and very grand Halberg Rassy. We suspected we might not be welcome there so quickly paid for a couple of nights before anyone got any wiser and tried to evict us. The blurb later informed us that the marina had 4000 berths - presumably 4001 for a couple of nights.
We were still hoping to get to Santander before the winter weather but when we bumped into our Dutch friend from the Ovni in Les Sable she told us there appeared to be space in the old port - Vieux Port - for the winter we decided to have a look.
A quick cycle ride that afternoon to the Vieux Port - a couple of miles up river from Minimes - found us booked in for the winter and we duly motored upriver that very afternoon - eventually rafting up to the Ovni as the berth we had arranged a couple of hours previously had already been occupied.

Les Sables d'Olonne

2006-12-12T14:09:00.000Z

Needless to say the winds had dropped and were now on the nose anyway and as it was a 26 hour passage we motored all the way as there were strong winds forecast again the following day.

Fairly uneventful passage although we saw dolphins again - many people tell us they never see dolphins and I can only assume they don't open their eyes. We actively look for them as they are a tremendous joy whenever they appear. There can be no doubt that they enjoy human company and love to show off - leaping and jumping around the boat and generally having fun. We tied up at the welcome pontoon about 9.00am, filled up with diesel and motored round to our pontoon where we found ourselves alonside a Dutch flagged aluminium 'Ovni'. Les Sables being the home of the Ovni makers there were lots of them about the port. Les Sables is really two towns on opposite sides of the river, the main town being on the opposite side to the marina, together with a large fishing port, a very nice shopping area and a long sandy beach. We enjoyed 2 or 3 days exploring the area and even bought ourselves bikes (our previous bikes having stayed on our old boat) to help get about. We even braved the breakers caused by strong onshore winds and swam on several occasions from the lovely beach.

Our plan was to make a big jump next time and go direct to Santander where we hoped to stay for the winter - a distance of about 210 miles and our longest passage to date and we were waiting for a fair forecast.

In the event we never did get that fair forecast and had days of strong winds from the wrong direction and several severe electrical storms. After a couple of weeks Les Sables was loosing it's attraction and we decided to make a run for it, going to La Rochelle if we didn't get a big enough window for Spain.

So it was that 25th September saw us leaving for La Rochelle.

Belle Ile

2006-12-12T12:12:00.000Z

We left Port Tudy in a flat calm and motored all the way to Belle Ile as the wind stayed away. We found out later that it was saving itself - with a vengeance!
We saw dolphins again - it was getting so regular that we were disappointed if we made a passage without them. The large bay outside La Palais looked very calm and gentle and we dropped our anchor in the sure and certain knowledge of a peaceful night - ha!
The wind backed and strengthened in the night and we woke early to much pitching and rolling. Suddenly, the harbour looked much more attractive and settled so we upped anchor and picked up a mooring in the harbour with the help of the harbour master who took our stern lines to the harbour wall - much better (but not for long unfortunately).

A pleasant day wandering round the town and a swim in the afternoon on the beach just outside the harbour although the wind was freshening and we had difficulty leaving the beach in the tender.

We ate ashore and passed a few minutes with people we had met previously in Concarneau. The moorings were getting crowded as boats were seeking shelter from the forecast gale.

We were awoken at about 1.ooam by a bit of commotion - we initially thought we had been hit but it turned out to be a 35footer who had thought he might find a bit of shelter from the severe gale blowing outside and had put crew on board us whilst he picked up and tried to share our already crowded mooring. Our new neighbours soon started clashing masts with his other neighbour and after trying to adjust his lines to improve his lie he eventually decided he was safer at sea again and left us in slightly more peace. Several other boats were clashing masts and also decided to leave. There was not much more sleep to be had that night especially as the seas were now breaking over the harbour wall and filling our cockpit. By middday many boats had had enough and left but the winds were dropping and we decided to stay the night in the hope of sleeping it off. Firstly, once the wind had dropped enough to allow us to row ashore we went out for dinner - and very good it was too - a great aid to recovery.

Left for Les Sable d'Olonne at 7.30am.

Ile de Groix

2006-12-12T12:01:00.000Z

September 5th and sunny again - hooray. Away by 9.30. Mixture of sail and motor as winds are very flukey but it's warm and sunny and there's no hurry is there? Saw a large pod of dolphins early afternoon and then another small group just before we entered Port Tudy on the Ile de Groix. Fairly tight entrance to pontoon finger as a large coaster was unloading sand next to a quay immediately astern of us and we had to do a bit of shuffling back and forewards - but, as hoped, it did keep the berth alonside us empty.

A noisy night and a busy little port with ferries arriving and leaving frequently, a quick look around the town in the morning and we left for our next, Belle Isle, at 12.30

Concarneau - a real mixed bag!

2006-12-12T11:18:00.000Z

We left our buoy in the Odet at 9.30, with the promise of a warm sunny day ahead. We enjoyed a motor sail down river, one minute beating the next running before the wind as the river wound down to the open sea.
Once clear of the river we enjoyed a fine sail with good winds and sun aplenty to Concarneau where we entered a remarkably empty marina and tied up on the visitors pontoon in plenty of time to enjoy an afternoon stroll around the Ville Close - the magnificent old walled medieval town. We returned to the Ville in the evening for scallops in a traditional crepe. Another tough day on Sundancer.
The next day (1st September) dawned warm and sunny again - end of the main sailing season as far as the French are concerned which means the marina charge today is half what it was yesterday - yet weather is one of the best days we've had. Day spent wandering the town and a local market. Then chartwork ready for an early start tomorow.

Who spoke about weather? Heavy rain and cold so as proper sailors do we stayed where we were. Saw a Westerly Conway - previous version of our own boat- towed in late afternoon. He had picked up a rope around his prop and was waiting to be craned out for repair. Spent pleasant evening on board his boat drinking red wine - Cheers Arnold!

Following morning even worse - thick fog - Ditto for next 2 days (the French do seem to know when their season finishes after all)

River Odet

2006-12-11T11:06:00.000Z

Benodet is at the mouth of the River Odet, navigable for about 10 miles - almost to Quimper - and what a beautiful river it is. Under the high road bridge and through hundreds of moorings and the river then meanders upstream through some lovely scenery and past many fairy tale Chateau. We were passed by several pleasure trip boats but with plenty of deep water it was not difficult to keep close to the banks and well out of their way. Below Quimper there is a very wide pool and we turned there before returning down river for a couple of miles before picking up an empty buoy for the night - and what a lovely night it was. We sat in the cockpit enjoying the last of the day, we watched the moon rising over the hills although even then it was a very dark and almost eerily quiet night seemingly miles from anywhere.
We were up early to enjoy the start of another day and watch the local bird life breakfasting along the river banks.
Benodet and the RiverOdet should be a must on everybody's itinerary - it is truly beautiful!!

Next stops Morgat and Benodet

2006-12-11T10:24:00.000Z

25th August dawned wet again - where is all the lovely weather promised in the guides and pilot books? - but nice as Camaret is there is only so many times you can see it all - especially in the rain, and we slipped out shortly after lunch. The rain had stopped but visibility was poor, we motor sailed for most of the afternoon and arrived in Morgat about 6.15pm by which time the sun was out . We ignored the visitors pontoon which looked pretty full and found a quiet berth, on the outer pontoon near the entrance used by the local boats, and hoped that we would not have to move. It was to prove an entertaining spot as we watched a procession of boats - mainly local - go aground at low water over the couple of days we were there.
One 40 foot yacht, crewed by about 10 people enthusiastically flying lots of flags showing it to be a Demonstration boat of a large well known French manufacturer gave us an unreasonable amount of pleasure when it went well and truly aground on a falling tide. What the potential clients on board thought of this one can only guess, especially when she slowly leaned over to about 45degrees. Hopefully, they could still reach the wine bottles as they would have a long wait for the returning tide - although they could at least wait anonymously as all the flags and bunting had disappeared quite early on - wonder why?
We left Morgat at 3.00pm after 2 days to catch the tides for the Raz de Sein - again essential to get the tides right for the Raz. A good trip although gusty and variable winds, and arrived at Audierne about 7.45 where we picked up a buoy in the outer harbour. Conditions overnight were quite lumpy and hadn't improved during the following morning so we slipped the buoy at noon. Well reefed we had an uncomfortable passage in strong winds, the highlight being a large pod of dolphins who stayed with us for half an hour or so - Dolphins are always an enormous joy and never failed to lift our spirits.
We entered Benodet at about 6.00pm, the sun shining but the wind still gusty and with a strong tide flooding in with us we were pleased to tie alongside the reception pontoon.
Benodet proved to be a beautiful little town, busy with visitors, and we enjoyed a couple of days there - determined to make a return visit in the future.

Camaret sur Mer

2006-12-07T14:26:00.000Z

Back from Plymouth by Brittany Ferry and a superb local bus and after some shopping we slip out of Brest in lovely conditions and enjoy a lovely reach down the Raz, ariving in Camaret late afternoon. We avoid the outer marina as it looks a bit exposed, slip round the corner carefully following the marked channel as there is not a lot of water and secure on a pontoon. The little town looks every bit as attractive as promised by the pilot books.
We ate on board but our early night was spoiled by very noisy revellers - went on till very late and we learned that drunken French youths are as noisy as the British. Following day wet but we had a walk round the town and looked at the museum and church by the harbour. Ate out in the evening under an outside awning which leaked quite badly when the rain came again. Night disturbed again by drunken behaviour - till about 4.00am (again something the pilot books warned about) Still, all in all a lovely spot and we were sorry to move on - delayed till later in the day due to heavy rain!

Chateaulin - magnifique!

2006-12-03T16:38:00.000Z

The following morning we motored a mile upstream, rafting alongside a Moody 38, one of numerous Red Ensigned boats. Chauteaulin was a beautiful town although it was hard to understand why it did not seem more popular with the locals as all the visitors were Brits. We stayed for 3 days and cannot recommend a visit to Brest without a trip up this lovely river - canalised after the town and not navigable with a mast.
The day to leave Chautelin dawned very wet and windy but there was no putting off our departure as we had to dash home for a week or so to sort out a bit of business. We timed the lock well and found it on free flow and motored straight through - if only all locks could be taken like this (memories of transitting the French Canals a couple of years previously when we went through about 230 locks over about 30 days - 21 in one day). So it was an unpleasant motor back to Brest and the Moulin Blanc marina before leaving for the UK the following day.

Rade de Brest - Cruising for everyone!

2006-12-03T16:05:00.000Z

We spent a couple of days enjoying the comforts of the Marina before exploring the the bays and rivers of the Rade - a superb cruising ground which one could spend a whole season in quite easily.
After 3 or 4 hours of pure pottering in light winds and warm sunshine we dropped hook in the Anse de L'auberlec'h, the bay almost deserted and our nearest neighbour at least 400m away. We lazed about doing the odd job on the boat, ate dinner in the cockpit and then watched a magical sunset - a perfect day!
The followind day was a toughie. We motored round the corner and anchored off The Ile de Tiddy - all of a mile, maybe as much as a mile and a half, anchored and that was it! (Come on, I warned you it was a toughie) Oh, and we ate, drank wine and sunbathed. Another quiet night at anchor, a short reach under genoa and we entered the River Launay, motoring between the wide, sweeping banks together with two other Red Ensign flagged yachts,before passing though the lock and berthing alongside a low river wall at Port Launay for the night. We had underestimated the height of tide and had to move when the water started lapping over the wall but managed to find a converted trawler to lie alomgside.

L'aberwrach, Chanal du four and Brest

2006-11-24T19:47:00.000Z

The way out from L'aberwrach was much easier - going South meant we could use the major channel - clearly buoyed and wider than our entrance.Winds were light and on the nose so diesel power was the order of the day. We had calculated our arrival time for the Chanel du Four carefully but the conditions were very kind and our passage was easy - although we shall keep our respect of its reputation till next time. Round the corner and we had favourable winds and were able to hoist full sail and enjoyed a fast reach to Rade de Brest. As we entered the Rade the wind freshened and we had a superb beat through the long approaches, past the naval and commercial yards before dropping sail and entering the Moulin Blanc Marina

Locked in - for ever?

2006-11-24T15:32:00.000Z

Morlaix was a beautiful place to stay and we enjoyed a couple of days eating, drinking and socialising until it was time to move on. Not that easy when at the head of a long river, a lock gate that only opens during business hours (excluding departure for many hours a day when tides are not favourable), and a long passage ahead. And again weather forecasts were none too kind. Eventually, came the only window for some time and we moved into the open lock to be joied by many other boats who had reached the same conclusion and it was a small armada that eventually spilled out of the lock when the outer gate creaked open.
Our next port of call was L'aberach but first we had to negotiate past Roscoff and behind the Ile de Batz, a tricky bit of pilotage seen previously from the decks of Brittany Ferries on several occasions.

Going, going, gone!

2006-11-24T14:47:00.000Z

We planned to spend a couple of weeks in our old home port, Yacht Haven at Mountbatten in Plymouth putting the final touches to Sundancer before leaving for France. We knew that a local rigger would climb the mast to install the wind instruments whereas in Poole we could not find anyone to do it without demasting.

It also gave friends and family a chance to come and see the boat and wave us off. We finished a few jobs, calibrated new instruments, a final short sea trial and with all tanks topped up we were ready. Morlaix was planned to be our first call and chartwork done we left at 19.00, hoping for eventual arrival at the lock gates at Morlaix at about 18.00 (still BST - clocks still to be adjusted) ready for the first lock opening. Rounding the final bend in the long river approach the closed gates lay to starboard with two other boats alongside the wall waiting also. We had only 10 mimutes to wait before locking through, directed to our berth by a very helpful lock keeper. La Morlaix stood ahead looking every bit as good as the pictures and guides we had read!

Poole to Plymouth

2006-11-24T12:06:00.000Z

Guess what!
That beautiful weather and all those favourable easterly winds have gone! There's a surprise then!
After waiting several days for a suitable weather window we gave up and headed off into force 4 Sou Westerlies -motoring straight in to the wind for 19 hours but at least we had our new Autohelm to help relieve the boredom of motoring through the night.
Plymouth sound- our previous home port for some years - appeared just as the sun came up - our only companions the fishing fleet leaving Plymouth for a days work- whilst the rest of Plymouth slept. We tied up on the visitors pontoon, the kettle always the first job, and soon we had our head down for a well earned kip.
Our maiden trip a success and everything still working.

launch day

2006-11-16T09:58:00.000Z

July 4th 2006

Independence day - if you're American. "Launch day" in our World.

After 2 months of refit during the best British summer weather for years we launch "Sundancer". (Nice for us whilst working - but what a waste of good sailing weather) A good day, it all goes well and we quickly motor round to our temporary pontoon berth with an unreasonably smug look on our faces (that probably won't last long knowing boats)