Faro through the Lens

Vilamoura - Portugal again!

Vilamoura from "Sundancer"

Our arrival at our allocated berth was delayed slightly by finding a tender moored there but it's owner had seen our approach and eventually removed it. We had forgotten that the pontoon fingers were probably the worse we had ever experienced - surprising in such a well managed marina. The fingers are rather short and severely tapered, very narrow at their outer end ,but, even worse, the single cleats at their outer end are shared by boats to each side and are very short with a single puny crossbar. Each one needs to take 2 sets of stern lines and 2 springs and when we entered our berth there was not enough space left to take our warps - nor are there any centre cleat. Pathetic! Our new neighbour with the tender had hidden below decks - on one of the few occasions when we might have appreciated a helping hand. Well, that's got that off my chest!!!

Other than that, we were soon settled and wandered ashore to test a local bar - stress works wonders on a thirst!

We had found the charges quite reasonable and we were thinking of changing our plans, especially as we had been offered a winter berth at less cost than Lagos. And it was handy for the airport at Faro - and we could fly in to Exeter, a real bonus as we normally have to fly to Luton or Stanstead.

We didn't need to make a decision yet so we got our bikes out -the first time since Torredembarra at the start of the season - and enjoyed a carefree few days exploring the area. We also took a bus trip to Faro, amazed to see several storks roosting in their colossal nests on top of the tallest buildings and chimneys and even on a lamp-post. We wandered round the old town and by the waters edge along the beautiful lagoon. We decided on the spot that it had been a mistake to sail past Faro and vowed to make a visit a must next Spring- another reason to make Vilamoura our winter berth.

And so it was, we spent the rest of the month playing tourists, visiting local markets and a bus trip to Albufeira.

We winterised the boat, took mainsail and genoa to the local sailmaker for a winter's TLC and valet and flew home on the 9th November.

Isla de Canela (Isle of Cinnamon)

A quick look round Isla de Canela

We were not unhappy to leave Mazagon behind us, especially as we had a good reaching wind with us, and once again our hardest working crewmate - the Raytheon Autopilot - was briefed on his day's mission; he seldom let us down and, even more important, NEVER answered back.

Our landfall, Isla de Canela (Cinnamon Island), 32 miles or so away, was a pleasant day sail away and if we couldn't atually smell the Cinnamon we might get a whiff of Portugal as it was a nudge away from the border.

Early afternoon and we could see the entrance to the River and we soon negotiating the bar at the entrance, the depth around the starboard mark much better than the 2 metres or so suggested by the chart at that state of tide, although we were amazed by the speed of the flood. We turned to port, passing through the narrow entrance to the marina, leaving the three large fishing boats which had entered the river with us, to travel further upriver to the fishing harbour.

The efficient staff in the rather grand office allocated us a berth quickly and we were comfortably settled by 15.00hrs. After a quick tootle round the town we spoilt ourselves with a super dinner at Bella Italia.

Our sleep was rudely interupted at 4.00am by departing fishing boats from the berths immediately outside the marina. We spent a couple of days enjoying the town, it is a fairly recent marina village type development but quite nicely done and a half hour walk round the head of the bay brings one to the old town which is rather more characterful.

The 3rd September, the new month a timely reminder that we needed to get a move on and 8.30 saw us dropping lines and leaving on the start of the ebb, our Portugese Courtesy Flag ready for the hoist!

18.00hrs saw us sailing past the fishing port, the Puero Deportiva a mile or so ahead, in company with a Spanish sailing school vessel. The school boat had a crew of about 8 and we wanted to be in before them, they would take a long time to clear Portugese systems but they looked as they would overhaul us - the skipper anxious to keep his crew on the boil. When they rounded up to drop sail outside the entrance we decided to go for it and sailed into the outer harbour where the calmer conditions allowed us to do a very quick sail drop. We reached the visitors pontoon about 3 boat lengths ahead and enjoyed our victory no end. Small things, as my mother used to say!

Rota Church Photos

Just a taste of the grandeur of Rota Church

Rota thro' Mazagon

Just a few of the many charms of Rota (see photos of the Church on the next post)

From Barbate to Rota was a long day's motorsail with little wind and a very hot sun. We had Cadiz and its tall buildings and enormous dockyard cranes visible for a long time, reminding of our previous visit to the bay when we had motored in with a broken forestay and rigging trailing in the water. Today's trip was a lot happier, and we crossed the bay against the flow of yachts returning to Cadiz and its neighbouring marinas from their day's sailing.

Rota has a large modern marina with a big Navy Base close by and we approached the narrow dogleg entrance at 19.00hrs, quickly overtaken by a fast ferry from Puerto Sherry, and we tied up near the ferry as it disgorged its many passengers. The very helpful officials soon had us sorted with a berth, 23 Euros a night. It all had a good feel - we liked it already.

A walk in to town and we found a busy, thriving place with a lot of charm. Also good shopping and a good Carrefour where we found lots of goodies and restocked our empty lockers. We found a staggeringly beautiful church but could not help be horrified at how much must have been spent on its interior at a time in history when we suspected the local population were poor. Back on board we found a local American radio station which appeared to be aimed at USA forces in the area but was very entertaining and update us on world affairs. Out after dinner we found the town very busy - even the beaches where locals had card schools grouped around on beach chairs - and we sat at a pavement cafe gorging ourselves on huge ice creams (piccies of the feast have been censored by the mate and are not available!)

The following morning Godfrey and Christine from"Gemini Dreamer" popped round and invited us for drinkies - always a popular move (they had arrived the previous evening but we had not realised it) We had a lovely swim in the afternoon and after dinner visited Gemini Dreamer where we had a very pleasant evening. A very good day but we were planning to move on tomorrow.

The day dawned but the skipper didn't. I felt very iffy (nothing to do with the previous evening) and spent most of the day asleep. The following day had strong winds and we stayed - not hard to do in Rota.

The 29th August, forecast OK but winds better for Mazagon than Vilamoura. Left at 10.45 and enjoyed a superb sail, strong, consistent wind from SW and 7+ kts on the log. A long approach to Mazagon, sharing the channel with tankers making for the refinery upriver from Puerto Deportiva, before a hairpin turn to starboard to enter the marina. The waiting quay was very busy but a German boat very generously hailed us to berth alongside - a kindness he might have regretted because it took an hour or so before we cleared the formalities and were able to make for our berth - during which time he was pinned inside us.

The marina was big but a bit souless and we found the town much the same the following day, well, the souless bit anyway. The loud music playing all night convinced us to move on tout de suite and we were away by 09.00 on the second morning, enjoying a strong ebb and departing at a satisfyingly quick rate, leaving to starboard by far the biggest breakwater we had ever seen

Barbate

Left; Barbate, the local restaurant, cause of much late night noise. Right; Hazel with Barbate offices and "Sundancer" behind

On our first night in Barbate we sat in the cockpit till late enjoying a beautiful warm evening and a leisurely dinner. The following day started as the previous day finished but in the early afternoon the wind freshened considerably blowing hard across the berth. Just after lunch a rather smart Dehler 41DS appeared alongside but the cross wind proved a bit difficult as they attempted to berth alongside the open pontoon. We took their lines on the second approach and "Gemini Dreamer" was soon tucked up.

Later we had a book swop with them - our bookshelf refreshed again for a while.

Another pleasant evening, spoilt a little by a very noisy night - a nearby nightclub not closing till dawn! We left at 11.30, Rota, on the far side of Cadiz Bay, and about 45 miles away, our next port.

The Great Siege Tunnels

Below; view across to La Linea from a gun port.




Right; "powder monkey" on watch. Centre; Scale display of digging in blind end of tunnel.







Bottom; Gun embrasure

The tunnels were mainly built between 1779 and 1783 to defend the Rock from a joint attack by the Spanish and French Armies. By the time the seige had been successfully overcome in 1783 the tunnels were over 370ft. long - totally cut out by hand using pick axe and spade with judicious use of dynamite where possible.

It was originally intended to provide access to a higher plateau where guns were to be placed but when a ventilation point was cut through the face it was realised that they offered tremendous sites for cannon and other embrasures were ordered to be cut out. It was not until the end of the siege that the tunnel was eventually completed, driven downwards when it was realised what advantage was offered by the site, terminating in a large chamber called St George's Hall where a battery of 7 guns was installed. After the siege the Commander of the French and Spanish forces, The Duc de Crillon, was invited to look at the tunnels and observed "These works are worthy of the Romans"

In the 2nd. World War the tunnels were extended by 30 miles by British and Canadian engineers.